Rabbit

Cute Rabbit Enjoying Watermelon

2010-04-06T00:22:00.000-07:00

Rabbits are herbivores who feed by grazing on grass, forbs, and leafy weeds. In consequence, their diet contains large amounts of cellulose, which is hard to digest. Rabbits solve this problem by passing two distinct types of feces: hard droppings and soft black viscous pellets, the latter of which are immediately eaten. Rabbits reingest their own droppings (rather than chewing the cud as do cows and many other herbivores) to digest their food further and extract sufficient nutrients.

Rabbits graze heavily and rapidly for roughly the first half hour of a grazing period (usually in the late afternoon), followed by about half an hour of more selective feeding. In this time, the rabbit will also excrete many hard fecal pellets, being waste pellets that will not be reingested. If the environment is relatively non-threatening, the rabbit will remain outdoors for many hours, grazing at intervals. While out of the burrow, the rabbit will occasionally reingest its soft, partially digested pellets; this is rarely observed, since the pellets are reingested as they are produced. Reingestion is most common within the burrow between 8 o'clock in the morning and 5 o'clock in the evening, being carried out intermittently within that period.

Thrianta Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:59:00.000-08:00

The Trianta is a breed of rabbit that originated in Holland. They were originally created for the House of Orange-Nassau, but when it was destroyed the Thranta were one of the only remains. The Thrianta has a beautiful scarlet/orange coat. The coat is normally the color of an Irish Setter. They are very pretty.

In the American Rabbit Breeders Association Thriantas are supposed to pose short and compact. The have straight ears and are supposed to be red all around. They are a very pretty breed.

Smoke Pearl Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:58:00.001-08:00

The Smoke pearl was created in Scotland in 1926, it was originally known as Smoke Beige, the name was changed in 1932. The colour is light pearl grey and beige. The Siamese version has smoke on the saddle shading to pearl grey beige on the flank, chest and belly. The Marten version has white ticking, eye circles and belly. This breed is recognised by the British Rabbit Council; however contrary to popular belief this breed is not recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders' Association as a breed, but is rather a series of color

Silver Fox Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:55:00.001-08:00

Weighing 9–12 pounds, two color varieties are available in this breed: black and blue, black being the only one recognized by the ARBA's Standard of Perfection.(As of summer 2008 the Blue variety can be shown. It is in development.) The Silver Fox's fur is coarser than the fur of other rabbits, one and half to two inches long, and when stroked from tail to head, the fur stands up. This is referred to as "no flyback" fur.

The guard hairs are white. This combined with the length and coarseness of the fur resembles the fur of the Arctic Silver Fox for which the Silver Fox rabbit is named. The Silver Fox Rabbit is listed as "Critical" by the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy, meaning there are fewer than 200 annual registrations in the United States and estimated global population less than 2,000.

The silver fox is a commercial breed.

Rhinelander Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:52:00.000-08:00

Weighing 7–10 pounds, the body is to be well arched carried off the table, avoiding any tendency toward heaviness in the shoulder or hindquarters. This tri-colored rabbit has black, golden brown, and white and their body type is very similar to that of a wild hare. Rhinelanders should exhibit length that gives a graceful appearance, width of a well rounded body, and a smooth top line blending into a rounded hindquarter.

They should also display an appearance of alertness and springiness. The unique quality of the Rhinelander is based on three things: Type being first, Coloration and Markings being next with equal values. it needs to desperatly be taken care of

The Rhinelander is a Full Arch breed..

Mini Satin Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:50:00.000-08:00

A smaller version of the Satin. Over 6 Months weight can vary from 3 to 4.25 lb and under 6 months they can reach a maximum of 4 lb. They were recognized as a breed in the ARBA standard in 2005 at the ARBA convention in Indianapolis, IN. They were developed by J. Leo Collins. The color varieties are Red, Chinchilla, Opal, Siamese, and White.

Rabbit Lionhead

2010-01-06T07:47:00.000-08:00

Lionhead rabbit is one of the newest breeds of domestic rabbits, excluding in the American Rabbit Breeders' Association. It has particularly long hair surrounding the face, reminiscent of the mane of a male lion, hence the name. Other characteristic traits of the Lionhead include a rounded head and small size, usually between 2.5 and 3.5 pounds. It also tends to have slightly shorter ears than most breeds.

The Lionhead rabbit originated in Belgium. It is reported to have been produced by breeders trying to breed a long coated dwarf rabbit by crossing a miniature Swiss Fox and a Belgian dwarf. The Lionhead seemed to have been more popular than the long coated dwarf, and so breeders carried on this trend in breeding them intentionally, and so came what we know today as the Lionhead rabbit.

The Lionhead has a cobby well rounded body, head bold with well developed muzzle. Their legs are of medium length and not too fine in bone. Their ears do not exceed 3 inches in length. Their mane is between 2-3 inches in length to form a full circle around the head, extending to a 'V' at the back of the neck falling into a fringe between the ears. Noticeably longer hair on the cheeks and chest. The coat is dense and of medium length, roll back and even all over body in adults.

The breed has been recognized since 2002 by the British Rabbit Council and the North American Lionhead Rabbit Club, however as of yet it is not a fully recognized breed in the American Rabbit Breeders' Association (ARBA). Currently ARBA is working on them as a breed, the year 2008 they recognized Gail Gibbons, as the 1st COD Holder, in a set of 3 CODs for the Breed standard. During the ARBA show of 2009, however, Lionheads didn't receive a COD.

Lilac Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:45:00.000-08:00

Weighing up to 7 pounds, first bred in the UK around 1913. It has a dense silky fur evenly coloured throughout in a pinkish dove shade, and of course lilac to lavender color. This is a very fading and slightly rare breed.

Himalayan Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:43:00.000-08:00

The Himalayan is an old breed long-known in Asian countries in the region of the Himalayan Mountains. It is more widely distributed throughout the world than any other rabbit breed, and has been known by more names, such as the Chinese, Russian, Egyptian, and the Black Nose. They are known for their gentle temperament, and make great pets for a first-time rabbit owner - or anyone who wants a rabbit that is content to sit in their lap sometimes. Like a Himalayan cat, the Himalayan rabbit is white with dark points on the nose, ears, tail and feet. The breed also has a slender, cat like body. The original variety had Black points, but later breeders created the Blue, Chocolate, and Lilac varieties. They are born all white, but their markings come in as they age. They are delicately built and always have pink eyes.

The Himalayan is the only breed classified as cylindrical - long bodied like a cylinder or tube. When shown, the judge judges this breed posed in a "stretched out" position.It is comen to see smut, a coloration around the eyes appear.

Havana Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:41:00.001-08:00

The Havana is a breed of rabbit that began in the Netherlands in 1898. Several breeds have arisen from the Havana, including the Feh de Marbourg, Perlefee and Gris Perle de Hal. Havanas are brown, blue, or black and weigh between 4.5 pounds (2.0 kg) and 6.5 pounds (2.9 kg).

Havanas are recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) in four color types: chocolate, blue, black and broken. Their average weight is between 4.5 pounds (2.0 kg) and 6.5 pounds (2.9 kg).[1] Havanas are a compact breed. Excess white fur is a disqualification.

Havanas are a friendly breed and make great pets.

Satin fur was a genetic mutation that was found first in a litter of Havanas.

Enderby Island Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:38:00.000-08:00

The Enderby Island Rabbit, or simply Enderby Rabbit, is a rare breed of domesticated European Rabbit originating from rabbits introduced to Enderby Island, an uninhabited subantarctic island in New Zealand’s Auckland Islands group, from Australia in October 1865 to serve as castaway food. Over 130 years the isolated population became a distinctive variety. The rabbits were eventually exterminated for wildlife management reasons from Enderby Island in the early 1990s, but a breeding group of 49 rabbits was rescued by the Rare Breeds Conservation Society of New Zealand in September 1992.

Description

Enderby Island Rabbits are mainly silver-grey in colour, with an undercoat of dark slate-blue. Their heads, ears and tails are very dark, sometimes black. Because of a recessive gene, a small proportion of the rabbits are born cream or beige in colour. Adult rabbits weigh about 2 kg.

Elfin Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:35:00.000-08:00

The Elfin rabbit, and the Swedish Hare, are the first breeds of rabbit to be bred specifically for sporting events for rabbits. Rabbit Hopping and Rabbit Agility have become popular. In Europe and the United States, breeders began to organize and working standards were in development by 2008.

In Sweden, the landrace breed called the Gotland Rabbit, although rare, was admired for it's good temperament and strong bodies. The Gotland rabbit also comes in all colors with many individuals possessing an athletic arched body type. With these qualities in mind, good jumpers were bred to the European Polish (like the Britannia Petite in the US), the Belgian Hare and other breeds that were good jumpers and easy to handle. The Swedish Hare is usually larger than the Elfin.

In the United States several breeds are used in developing the Elfin rabbit. All breeds were considered, using an outgoing temperament and an arched, athletic body type as a guide to individual selection. Rhinelanders were breed to Polish to reduce the size. Tans, Harlequin, Mini Satins, and Britannia Petites were other instrumental breeds. Almost all the breeds have individuals that excel in rabbit sports, but not all rabbits like to hop in public.

Selection for the Elfin in the USA and the Swedish Hare in Sweden is based on criteria directly related to the ability to jump and compete in jumping competitions. Color does not affect jumping ability, so there are NO disqualifications for color or markings. Color does help to tell the competitors apart, so wild and unusual colors are encouraged. The standard selects for the ability to jump in competition and avoids animals that might be hindered by extreme body type, coat, or ear length.

Dwarf Hotot Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:32:00.000-08:00

As the name implies, the Dwarf Hotot should be small and compact, a stocky, docile little rabbit much like the Netherland Dwarf. The head itself is round, with a broad skull. There should be no visible neck. Eyes are round, bold and bright. Ears should be short, well furred, and of good substance. Ears should balance with the head and body. The body should be uniformly wide from shoulders to hips, with well rounded hindquarters. The topline should have very slight gradual curve from the ear base to the highest point over the hips, and fall in a smooth curve to the base of the tail. Maximum weight for the Dwarf Hotot is 3 lb, ideal weight 2 1/2. Their fur should be soft, dense, fine with good luster. Fur is to roll back gently back into position when stroked. Color is to be uniform and of pure white over the entire body, except for eye bands. Eyes to be dark brown. Eyebands are to be narrow, well defined bands of black colored fur forming a complete outline of the eye. Color to be as intense and dark as possible. Ideal eyeband width is to be equal to the thickness of two pennies.The Dwarf hotot rabbit can be litterbox trained.

Two different German breeders created this breed almost simultaneously in the 1970s. In the early 1980s, the breed first entered the United States. These small rabbits are sweet and affectionate. They tend to be curious with playful personalities, and most are eager for attention.

After the ARBA National Convention in FT. Worth Texas, 2006 The Chocolate Variety became a fully recognized variety.They are very loving and great children's pets. More information can be achieved by contacting the American Dwarf Hotot Rabbit Club.

The Dwarf hotot is a Compact breed.

Weight: 3 lb or less
ARBA-accepted varieties: Black, Chocolate

Cinnamon Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:28:00.000-08:00

Originating in Montana in the 1960s, this breed was developed by rabbit breeder Ellis Houseman and accepted by the ARBA in 1972. It is a meat rabbit noted for its rust or "cinnamon" color complimented by grey ticking on the tips of the fur.

The Cinnamon rabbit is a Commercial rabbit.

Weight: 8.5–11 lb.
ARBA-accepted varieties: Standard

Giant Chinchilla Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:27:00.000-08:00

The Giant Chinchilla is a result of crosses between Chinchilla breeds and Flemish Giants; it originates in the United States. This breed is used primarily as a commercial meat rabbit. Other chinchillas include the Standard and the American Chinchillas.

Weight: 12–16 lb.
ARBA-accepted varieties: Standard

American Chinchilla Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:20:00.000-08:00

The American Chinchilla, originally called "Heavyweight Chinchilla Rabbit", is larger than the Standard Chinchilla but otherwise identical. Standard Chinchillas bred for large size produced this breed. Chinchilla Rabbits originated in France and were bred to standard by M. J. Dybowski. They were introduced to the United States in 1919.

Weight: 9–12 lb.
ARBA-accepted varieties: Standard

These stocky rabbits have a slight curve to their medium length bodies, beginning at the nape of their necks and following through to the rump. They carry their ears straight erect. In show, type is judged to be more important than color. American Chinchilla Rabbits will be disqualified in show for having a body type that resembles a Flemish Giant Rabbit. Junior and intermediate American Chinchilla Rabbits may be shown in age classifications higher than their own if they are overweight. Bucks and does under six months and nine pounds are considered juniors.

Intermediate American Chinchilla Rabbits are bucks and does six to eight months of age. Bucks weigh less than eleven pounds and does less than twelve. Senior bucks and does are over eight months of age and bucks weigh between nine and 11 pounds. Doe American Chinchilla Rabbits weigh between ten and 12 pounds.

American Chinchilla Rabbits are good breeders, with an average litter of 7-10 babies.

British Giant Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:17:00.000-08:00

This giant breed is not ARBA-accepted, as it is uncommon in the United States and exists predominantly in the UK. It appears in a number of different varieties: dark steel grey, black, white, blue, brown, grey and opal.

Brazilian Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:15:00.000-08:00

This breed is common to the Brazilian farmers and small markets in the mountains and backcountry. They are called a “Rústico” (pronounced “Hus’tico”. It means “rustic”). Hardy, solid, calm. Small population in Arizona USA since 1980. This breed is not recognized by ARBA. This is a breed of Oryctolagus cuniculus and is different from the Brazilian/Forest rabbit (Sylvilagus brasiliensis).

Blanc de Hotot Rabbit

2010-01-06T07:13:00.001-08:00

The Hotot was developed in Hotot-en-Auge, France by Eugenie Bernhard, the second woman to be credited with creating a new breed of rabbit. The Blanc de Hotot is a large rabbit with a frosty white coat and black rings around dark eyes. The white coat was incorporated in the breeds development as an important meat and fur quality trait. Bucks weigh 8-10 pounds and the does weigh 9-11 pounds. The breed is endangered globally and listed at THREATENED by the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy. This means there are fewer than 1,000 annual registrations in the United States and estimated global population less than 5,000...

Blanc de Bouscat

2010-01-06T07:11:00.001-08:00

This breed of rabbit originated in France and is quite rare in England. The breed is quite big; bucks are generally around 12 pounds and does about 14 pounds. The fur is quite silky and dense and is most commonly white.

Netherland Dwarf

2010-01-06T06:06:00.000-08:00

The Netherland Dwarf is a popular breed of domestic rabbit originating in the Netherlands. Smaller than most rabbit breeds, Netherland Dwarf rabbits weigh 500g to 1.6 kg and are usually kept as pets or exhibition animals. They are not typically used as sources of meat or fur because of their small size.(5 in.)

Most rabbits sold in pet stores are Netherland Dwarfs, Netherland Dwarf-derived breeds (often referred to simply as dwarf breeds), or Netherland Dwarf crosses. Their popularity as pets stems from their babyish appearance and their smaller cage space requirement compared to larger rabbit breeds. A lot of people also use Netherland Dwarfs for showing.

History

The Netherland Dwarf breed was first produced in the Netherlands in the early 20th century. Small Polish rabbits were bred with smaller wild rabbits; after several generations the resulting animal was a very small domestic rabbit available in a wide variety of colors and patterns. Netherland Dwarfs were first imported into the United Kingdom in 1948. In the 1960s and 1970s the United States imported its first Netherland Dwarf rabbits. The breed was accepted by the American Rabbit Breeders' Association in 1969 using a modification of the British standard.

Early dwarfs, even into the 1970s and 1980s, had fearful and sometimes aggressive temperaments. This was a result of breeders selecting wild breeding animals for their size. The first dwarf rabbits behaved more like these wild rabbits than domestic animals and were not good pets. However, through generations of selective breeding, the modern Netherland Dwarf has become a gentle, friendly pet rabbit, though it still retains a more energetic disposition than larger breeds.

Appearance

Himalayan pattern.

Netherland Dwarfs' heads and eyes are disproportionately large with respect to their bodies, and their ears are tiny and carried high on the head. Additionally, their faces are rounded and shortened. These features, a part of the animals' dwarfism, cause them to look infantile even into adulthood.

Dwarf crosses frequently retain some of these characteristics, depending on the breed the dwarf is crossed with. However, crosses rarely look as babyish as the purebred dwarfs and are usually somewhat larger.

Purebred Netherland Dwarfs come in a wide variety of colors, including Himalayan, Black, Blue, Chocolate, Lilac, Smoke Pearl, Sable Point, Tortoiseshell, Chestnut, Siamese Sable, Opal, Lynx, Squirrel, Chinchilla, Otter, Tan, Silver Marten, Sable Marten, Smoke Pearl Marten, Orange, Fawn, Steel, Broken, Blue-Eyed White and Ruby Eyed White. Other colors (including mismarks) exist in non-show-quality Netherland Dwarfs and in dwarf mongrel rabbits.

Behavior

Netherland dwarf rabbits have the same basic behavioral traits as other domestic rabbits. They can be litter-trained, but success varies amongst individuals of any breed.

Netherland Dwarfs have a reputation of being skittish, wild, and/or of poor temperament. This is a leftover stereotype from the beginnings of the breed, when temperament wasn't the best. This has changed through selective breeding, making Dwarfs a docile breed. There are always exceptions, however, and there are testy individuals out there. In general, the Netherland Dwarf is curious and gentle. Those that are handled often learn to seek out human contact and enjoy companionship.

A well-bred Netherland Dwarf makes an excellent pet for both adults and children. They are hardy and, while small, are able to keep up with reasonable play and handling.

Diet

Like other domestic rabbits, dwarf rabbits have a sensitive digestive system that is less hardy than their wild rabbit cousins, and leafy vegetables such as lettuce and cabbage can give them health problems, such as diarrhea, if fed in excess. Young rabbits, up until about six months of age, should not be given vegetables for this reason. Adults can be fed safe fruits and veggies in moderation. In addition, sudden changes to a dwarf rabbit's diet can cause digestive problems, but it generally only lasts a few days and usually causes no real harm/lasting damage.

A very important aspect of rabbit care is proper diet. Many owners unintentionally fail at this point and that often spells disaster for their pet. Netherland Dwarfs have a digestive system even more sensitive than most breeds. The best diet consists of fresh, good quality rabbit pellets fed in limited amounts. It is crucial that the pellets be fresh and stored for no longer than eight weeks, do not use pellets which are moldy or have been contaminated. As pellets age they lose important nutrients and a rabbit’s system will become susceptible to disease. The owner should also be checking the label for the percentages of protein, fiber, and fat. The National Research Council lists minimum rabbit nutrient requirements for a maintenance diet as 14% crude fiber, 2% fat, and 12% protein. It is best to feed a pellet that is higher in fiber (18-20%) and lower in protein (14-15%) and fat (2-3%) to a pet rabbit. Once you find a good brand stick with it, frequent changes in diet can cause digestive problems. If you need to change brands be sure to mix the new feed in with the old and increase the amount of new to old over a weeks time so the rabbit can adjust.
Netherland Dwarfs generally don't require much feed. A small handful each day is usually enough, but it is important to adjust for each individual to avoid malnourishment/obesity. It is also important not to overfeed a Netherland Dwarf. They need plenty of Hay, at least a bunch as large as the animal per day. A traditional Ramekin dish full of complementary food, and free access to water is always required.

Smaller rabbits are better for smaller children.

Care

These rabbits, as well as Polish rabbits, need Constant excersize. They will get bored and thump their back legs. You need to have an area for your pet to run around, like a basement or a bedroom. It is a smart idea to rabbit proof the room before allowing the rabbit to run around. Check for small spaces where your rabbit could fit. Never look at a hole and think it is too small for a rabbit to squeeze through. Up until 3 months of age, if a rabbit can fit its head through a hole, it can fit the rest of its body through, too. Check to see if you have any small items that the rabbit could chew on, like cords. If you have cords where your rabbit can reach them, you can tape them to your wall to keep Bunny from chewing on them. Never think a rabbit can't get to somewhere. Rabbits are Very smart creatures and can figure out how to get into or onto the most unlikely of places.

Dwarf breeds

Rabbit breeds derived from breeding larger rabbits with the Netherland dwarf are known as dwarf breeds. Most smaller breeds, like the Mini-Rex, the Jersey Wooly, and the Holland lop, are results of such breedings. Generally dwarf breeds are slightly larger than the typical Netherland dwarf, not growing larger than 4 to 5 lb (1.8 to 2.3 kg). Most have shortened faces compared to larger rabbits, and some even preserve the rounded head, large eyes, or small ears of the Netherland dwarf.

Most dwarf breeds are intended to bring a specialized characteristic, such as a specific fur type, into a smaller rabbit. Mini-Rex were created through the breeding of dwarfs with Rex rabbits, a fur breed with a short, plush coat, and retain both the dwarf's size and the Rex fur. Jersey Woolies are a dwarf version of the Angora rabbit, a wool-producing breed. Lop-eared rabbit breeds, interbred with dwarfs, were used to create Holland Lop. Despite its name, the Mini Lop is not a dwarf breed.

Breeding

When two "true dwarfs" (both buck and doe) are bred, the genetic pattern which makes them "true dwarfs" (Dwdw) ensures that a percentage of their offspring will inherent the lethal genetic combination DwDw. These offspring, often called "peanuts" by rabbit breeders, are destined to struggle with life for up to three weeks, and then to die. Reasons behind the death are unknown, but it is believed that peanuts have underdeveloped digestive tracts. The condition is 100% fatal, despite claims of some peanuts living to adulthood. Many ethical breeders humanely euthanize peanuts upon finding them soon after birth. Peanuts are easily distinguished from non-peanuts; they have extremely pinched hindquarters, a bulbous head, and their ears are often set further back than normal (sometimes almost onto the neck).

If two true dwarfs are bred, the statistical result will be 25% fatal 25% false, and 50% true. The actual numbers of true/false/peanuts in a real litter varies. "False Dwarfs" tend to have longer bodies, longer/larger ears, longer faces, and are often heavier than the 2.5 pound maximum weight for showing. While false dwarfs do not make good show rabbits, does from a good background are vital to a breeder's program. They have the same "good genes" as a true dwarf and are capable mothers, often having larger and more successful litters than true dwarfs. False dwarfs are easily judged for quality as the traits are generally the same, only bigger. Ear thickness/shape, fullness of hindquarter, topline, and other traits are the same.

It is common practice amongst Netherland Dwarf breeders to breed a proven show quality true dwarf buck to a quality false dwarf doe. This eliminates the chance of peanuts and yields quality offspring. The chances of false dwarfs is higher, but those offspring generally go toward breeding (some false dwarf bucks have proven themselves valuable to a breeding program) or are sold as pets.

New Zealand white rabbit

2010-01-06T06:04:00.000-08:00

New Zealand white rabbits are a breed of rabbit, which despite the name, are American in origin. In 1916, W.S. Preshaw bred the first litter of New Zealand white rabbits with a plan to produce a rabbit that would be excellent for meat and fur trade. The original breeds that were used are unknown, but Angoras are believed to have played some part. (Verhallen 23-35)

Physiology

New Zealand white rabbits were bred for their meat and fur, but their body type helped to contribute to them becoming the favorite breed of domestic rabbit. New Zealand whites have well-rounded bodies; slender and muscular faces with round cheeks; large, long back feet; and small, short front feet (Rubins). They have long perforrated ears that stand straight up. Unlike the thick, snowy fur on their bodies, their ears have shorter fur that allows the delicate pale pink of their skin to show through (Rubins). The most noticeable characteristic of New Zealand white rabbits is their bright eyes, which range in shade from pale pink to bright ruby red (Rubins).

New Zealand white rabbits have large, broad, and muscular bodies. Bucks (males) weigh between 8-10 pounds, while the does (females) weigh between 9-12 pounds (Verhallen 23-35). In addition to their greater size, females are distinguished by the presence of a dewlap, which is flap of fur below the chin that is pulled for a nesting box during pregnancies.

Albinism

New Zealand white rabbits have a genetic deviation called albinism. Albinism is caused by a lack of melanin, which is a vital pigment that gives all creatures, including humans, their skin/ fur/ hair/ eye color. The snowy coat of a New Zealand white rabbit is a normal length like other rabbit breeds.

Diet

The diet of a New Zealand white rabbit is no different than for any of other rabbit breeds. A high quality feed pellet (protein ~ 15-16%), along with unlimited timothy hay and fresh water and exercise will maintain a healthy individual.

Domestic use

In the beginning New Zealand white rabbits were not bred to be a domestic pet. Instead they were bred for their excellent fur and meat. Fryers are slaughtered at two months of age and older rabbits are sold as roasters. The rabbits with high grades of fur are used to make fur coats and fur trimmings. The lower grades are used to make felt hats and glove linings ("Commercial Rabbit Raising"). New Zealand white rabbits are the number one meat rabbit in the United States (Bare 63-65).

Along with commercial purposes, New Zealand white rabbits are also used for laboratory purposes. Over one million New Zealand white rabbits execute roles during laboratory testing. Rabbits react similarly to humans to diseases and medications. This reaction allows them to be used at pharmaceutical laboratories, the U.S. Public Health building, cancer research centers, and university hospitals. New Zealand white rabbits have been used to develop tests and drugs for diseases like diabetes, diphtheria, tuberculosis, cancer, and heart disease. The effects of skin creams, cosmetics, special diets, and food additives have also been tested on New Zealand white rabbits. (Bare 63-65)

Breeding

A female rabbit (doe) is fertile all year long. The gestation period is around 28–31 days. A few days before birth, a nest box should be provided for the new mother. The doe will pull fur from her dewlap and, along with hay or other materials provided, will create a nest. The young are called kittens and are born hairless with their eyes closed. Fur begins to grow in by day 5 or 6 and after 10 to 12 days the kits' eyes will open. At the age of three weeks their mother will begin to wean them off milk, meanwhile the kits will begin to eat hay and pellets. The average number of kits per litter is six but can range from two to twelve. Because rabbits are induced ovulators a doe can become pregnant by the simple act of mating if conditions are right. A doe can get pregnant soon after birth.

Cannibalism is rare but can happen. In the wild it is a defensive mechanism to remove all blood and dead tissue from the nesting area to avoid detection by predators. If young are stillborn or die after birth, many times the doe will ingest the remains. Males (bucks) rabbits have no part in raising the young. In the wild, bucks will kill litters to induce the female to mate with them, therefore passing along his genes. (Rabbit Production, Cheeke et al.)

Polish rabbit

2010-01-06T06:00:00.000-08:00

The Polish Rabbit is a breed of rabbit. It is a compact breed with much personality. The breed was developed in England as food; however as time progressed, it became more popular as a pet.

History and origin

THE PHOTO ABOVE IS A NETHERLAND DWARF NOT A POLISH RABBIT from a BRC judge. Despite the name, the Polish rabbit is thought to have originated in England from the common white hutch rabbit. They were first exhibited in England in 1884. Many believe that they were developed from Dutch and Himalayan rabbits in the 1860s. The Polish rabbit was originally developed as a meat breed and was larger than the contemporary Polish. In the 1900s, the Polish rabbit was one of the most popular breeds in Europe, especially Belgium. When brought to America they did not carry the dwarf gene and were the smallest breed around. Back in England breeders selected for a different body type, until the British "Polish" of today is the same breed as the American "britannia petite".

Appearance

Today, the Polish rabbit is used as a fancy exhibition breed. They dont make great pets as they are sometimes aggressive. They are small rabbits with short ears that touch each other all the way to the tips. Due to their small size, the Polish rabbit is often confused with the Netherland dwarf, although the Polish is a little larger and the head is not rounded. There are many other differences between the two breeds, such as coat structure and colors. The accepted weights of the polish rabbits 6 months or older are 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 pounds. The ideal weight is 2 1/2 pounds.

Until the 1950s, most Polish rabbits were white with either red eyes or blue eyes. The ruby-eyed white is a true albino. The blue-eyed white has the Vienna white gene and is not a true albino. Since the 1950s, colored Polish breeds have been recognized by rabbit clubs. In 1957, the American Rabbit Breeders' Association approved the black and chocolate Polish. In 1982, the blue variety was approved and in 1998 the broken variety was allowed.

In the UK, the National Polish Rabbit Club accepts any color of Polish rabbit as long as it is accepted by another breed in its standard. REWs are the most popular and the most successful at shows, while in the Coloreds, sables tend to dominate.

Personality and care

Because of their small size, Polish rabbits need less space in cage and barn facilities and take up less space in apartments than some of the larger breeds. As with other small breed rabbits, they tend to be more highly strung than their larger counterparts. They are also not ideal pets for small children as they are easily dropped, injured and stepped on. Their highly-strung nature makes them more suited for a mature, rabbit-loving, adult home. Bucks are very playful and are extremely fast if let loose and may be difficult to catch.

Feeding

Polish rabbits should be fed about 1/4 cup of pellet feed every day. They can be fed unlimited timothy or grass hay every day. They can also be fed fruits, vegetables, oats and grains. The owner should make sure that if the rabbit is over 3 pounds or flabby, it needs a better diet and more exercise.

Health concerns

Polish rabbits have a reputation for being difficult to care for, but this is not borne out in practice. In general they are very hardy rabbits, and do relatively well in high or low temperatures. They have a short coat that requires no daily grooming, and they are not prone to hairballs. Other health concerns that can affect any breed include earmites, pasteurella, respiratory disease, dental problems, urinary bladder stones and fractured backs. Any changes in diet or elimination habits should be noted immediately and a veterinarian should be consulted without delay.

The average life span of a breeding Polish rabbit is 6 to 8 years. By spaying or neutering a Polish rabbit early in life, one can increase their life expectancy to around 10 years.

Silver Marten

2010-01-06T05:40:00.000-08:00

The Silver Marten is a breed of domestic rabbit. Although they are raised to compete in pet shows and agricultural shows, they are also regarded as "loveable and charming" pets.

Description

The Silver Marten is a medium-sized rabbit that weighs between 6.5 and 8.5 lbs. when fully grown. They are hardy and have fur that is described as soft "with a beautiful polished look to it". While more timid than some larger breeds of rabbit, they are still considered an excellent pet. The Silver Marten is playful, enjoys romping around, and likes playthings it can toss around its cage.

History

Early breeders of Chinchilla rabbits, a breed listed as critical on the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy Conservation Priority List, attempted to improve Chinchilla rabbits' color and pattern by introducing black and tan bloodlines. These genes later manifested as black "sports" described as "strange little black rabbits" as well as similar silver rabbits among standard Chinchilla rabbit litters. These oddities bred true and were named as a separate breed, the "Silver Marten", in 1924.

In 1927, a working standard for black and chocolate varieties was established by the American Rabbit Breeders' Association and the first Silver Marten Club was chartered. A blue variety of this breed was accepted in 1933. The sable variety, the last to be approved, was accepted in 1993.

Varieties

Black Silver Marten is the most popular variety of the breed. Specimens should be jet black color, its fur being black as far down the hair as possible, with contrasting silver markings that are shape and defined. A Black Silver Martens should have dark brown eyes and an underside of dark slate blue.

Blue Silver Marten is the second most popular breed. Their color should be an even dark "blue" everywhere. Their eyes should be bluish gray. Sharp markings in the blue variety are often slower to fully develop than in the Blue Silver Marten.

Chocolate Silver Martens should be a rich, dark brown color "like semi-sweet rather than milk chocolate candy" and brown eyes. Their bellies are the same color but lighter, with pigment only at the tips of the fur. Breeders say that their fur has a tendency to fade over time, especially if given much sunlight.

Sable Silver Martens, the last variety of the breed to be approved, are the least common. They should be medium sepia brown "on the saddle, shading evenly down the sides to a lighter color". The rabbit's ears, face, tail, outside of the feet, and lower legs should be very dark sepia brown, nearly black, that provides a distinct contrast to the color of the body. Correctly colored sables must be a silvery color at birth, but as they age they take on a blotchy appearance. The coat typically darkens throughout the rabbit's lifetime, each successive molt reducing the contrast with the points.

Silver Marten are a compatible breed for introducing color into Dwarf Rabbit bloodlines.

Silver Martens are a great breed, they come in 5 different colors. Black, the black Silver Marten is to be jet black except for the ticking at the bottom of it, the belly is supposed to be white. Sable, a light brown Chocolate, a dark brown Blue, a dark blue and Lilac, it is not registered but is a grey with a slight purple tint

Plush lop Rabbit

2010-01-06T05:26:00.000-08:00

Plush Lops are a relatively new rabbit breed. They come in 2 sizes - Miniature and Standard. Miniature Plush Lops were the first to be developed. Devie D'anniballe began creating this breed in 1995 in the United States. She succeeded in developing them by combining the previously existing breeds of Holland Lop, Mini Rex, and Mini Lop. Her aim was to create the perfect pet by retaining the good qualities of these breeds, while "breeding out" all the problems existing in these breeds.

By selecting for the best traits of each of these breeds, Devie created a breed of rabbit that had the compact, appealing body and lopped ears of the Holland Lop and Mini Lop, combined with the soft, short, hypoallergenic fur of the Mini Rex. Since her aim was to create the perfect pet, personality was of great importance in Devie's breeding program. Miniature Plush Lops today have playful, friendly personalities, but they are also docile enough to allow their owners to hold them for reasonably long periods of time. While they are adventurous and outgoing, they are easy to catch, and quite affectionate.

Standard Plush Lops were developed in 2002 in Australia by Christine Toyer. Christine developed the Plush Lop by crossing Dwarf Lops with Standard Rex. This breed is best described by Christine Toyer herself, who said, "Combining the velvety short coats of the Rex Rabbit breed, with the loving personality and cute looks of the Lop Rabbit breeds, the Plush Lop is a breed with a lot to recommend it, both for pet owners and for the serious breeder."

In Australia and UK, Plush Lops are still considered to be a breed in development, although it seems that it won't be long before Plush Lops become a fully standardised breed according to the British Rabbit Council. Plush Lops will probably never become a standardised breed with the American Rabbit Breeders Association, because one of ARBA's rules states that a new type of rabbit cannot be recognized as a "breed" if it only differs from an existing breed in coat quality. That is, if a Mini Plush Lop is the same as a Holland Lop, except the Mini Plush Lop has rex fur, it is not considered "different" enough to be recognized as a separate breed.

Mini Rex Rabbit

2010-01-06T05:24:00.000-08:00

Mini Rex were derived from the standard Standard Rex rabbit. Their unique fur, dense, plush and velvet-like, was caused by a mutation seen in wild rabbits in France in the late 1800s. The Rex mutation is recessive and causes the hair to protrude outwards from the body, instead of lying flat, and the guard hairs to be shortened to the length of the undercoat.

Their small size, plush coat and friendly personalities make them one of the most popular rabbit breeds in the United States. They were first recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) in 1988, and been very popular with exhibitors ever since. It weighs 4 to 4 1/2 pounds when fully grown. Short and rather close coupled, it is moderately well filled with flesh. The ideal length of its fur is 5/8 inch, and is to have a lustrous appearance, good body, and a plush-like effect which offers a distinct springy resistance to the touch.

The ARBA Mini Rex Standard

For competitions, a Mini Rex should have a well-rounded back, with well-developed and filled shoulders, midsection and hindquarters. Their head should be well-filled and set on a short neck, with thick ears not longer than 3.5 inches. They should have medium-fine bone and rather short legs. Fur should be extremely dense, straight and upright. It should be smooth and springy, not too soft or silky. Fur must be between 1/2 inch and 7/8 inch in length. Any missing toe nails can lead to disqualification of the rabbit.

The Mini Rex is judged 35 points on body, 5 for head, 5 for ears, 35 for fur, 15 for color and 5 for condition, making a total of 100 possible points. They are a four-class rabbit, which means there are four age groups they can be shown in. They are Senior Bucks (3 - 4.25 lbs, ideal 4 lbs), Senior Does (3 - 4.5 lbs, ideal 4.25 lbs), Junior Bucks (2 - 3 lbs) and Junior Does (2 - 3 lbs).

Many Mini Rex rabbit shows are either local or national. Some shows are not sponsored by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA), but rather by local or state Breeders Associations. Some Mini Rex shows are sanctioned by local show "designators" who set up and organize the event. Rabbit's are judged by national judges and the winners are announced at the end of judging. Rabbit shows are divided by class (color, age, and gender) and announced three times; If there are not enough show entries on the table or not enough show up, the class can be canceled. Rabbits can win a "leg" at sanctioned shows, that are noted as a winning, these can be won by having 5 rabbits or more in a class with 3 or more exhibitors. the "legs" can be classified by BIS (best in show) RBIS (reserve best in show) BOB (best of breed) BOS (best opposite sex) BOV (best ov variety) BOSV (best opposite sex of variety)

Coloration and Markings

The Mini Rex color spectrum includes Blue, Blue Eyed White, the Broken Group, Castor, Chinchilla, Chocolate, Himalayan, Lilac, Lynx, Opal, Otter, Red, Sable Point, Seal, Tortoise, and White. New certificates of development have been awarded by ARBA for Sable, Smoke Pearl, Silver Marten, and Tan Mini Rex, all to be presented in the next few years.

Black -- dark, rich, lustrous black, running deeply towards the skin, blending into a dark blue under color. Eyes are dark brown.
Blue -- dark blue, running as deeply towards the skin as possible, with a medium blue under color. Eyes are a blueish grey.
Castor -- a rich chestnut color tipped with black. The under color is slate blue with an orange intermediate band of color. Ears are laced in black. Surface color of the belly is cream, as well as the eye circles and jowls. Eyes are brown.
Chinchilla -- sparkling mix of pearl and black. Slate blue under color, white belly color. Ears are laced with black, and eye circles are pearl. Upper of tail is black, bottom is white. Eyes are brown or blueish grey.
Chocolate -- lustrous chocolate brown. Dove-grey under color. Brown eyes.
Himalayan -- body is bright white. Ears, feet, tail and nose dark blue or black. Dark toenails, pink eyes.
Lilac -- dove grey lightly tinted with a lilac shade. Matching toenails and blueish grey eyes.
Lynx -- light fawn color tipped with lilac. White under color. Eye circles, jowls, belly, inside of ears and underside of tail are white. Eyes are blueish grey. '
Opal -- medium blue top color, fawn intermediate color and grayish blue under color. Underside of tail, jowls, belly, inside of ears and eye circles are to be white of cream. Eyes are blueish grey.

Otter -- Mainly black or blue or chocolate or lilac, with tan under belly, chin, tail and circular eye markings..
Red -- rich red with as little shading as possible. White or cream belly color. Eyes are brown.
Sable -- dark brown body, with even darker ears, nose, tail, & feet. Eyes are brown.
Sable Point -- lighter brown all over and darker ears, nose, tail, feet. Eyes are brown.
Seal -- dark, dark brown body, fading to lighter brown on the belly and chest. Eyes are brown.
Tortoise -- rich orange with dark shading on the belly, feet, rear, sides, face and ears. Eyes are brown.
Red Eyed White -- pure white. Eyes are pink.
Blue Eyed White -- pure white, eyes blue.
Broken -- Any accepted variety in conjunction with white.
Tri-Color -- white with Black & Orange, Lilac & Fawn, Chocolate & Orange, or Blue & Fawn.
Pattern -- a broken with a balanced nose marking, eye markings, colored ears, colored tail and body spots. Colored area covering 10% to 50% of rabbit.

Mini Lop Rabbit

2010-01-06T05:22:00.000-08:00

The Mini Lop is a very popular rabbit breed that is featured in numerous rabbit shows throughout the United States. In the USA, it is the second smallest Lop overall, as well as the smallest non-dwarfed lop. It is a different breed from the Holland Lop, which is the smallest (and only dwarf lop) of lop breeds in the USA. Its equivalent in the UK is the Dwarf Lop; however there is a breed called the Miniature Lop in that area, which is the equivalent of the Holland Lop in the United States.

The main characteristics of this breed of rabbit is a short massive-looking body, a big, block-like head, lopped ears, and thick, soft fur. Breeders attempt to make it feel like a basketball with legs, a head, and a tail. Ideally this rabbit should resemble a Bulldog in appearance and tenacity.

Bob Herschbach discovered the Mini Lop breed at a German National Rabbit Show in Essen, Germany in 1972, where it was known as a Klein Widder. These first Mini Lops were originated from the German Big Lop and the small Chinchilla. These two breeds came originally in Agouti and white colors.

German lops were about 8 lb (3.6 kg), slender and large with thick ears. Herschbach, a Mini Lop promoter, achieved the first procreation of Mini Lops in the United States, mainly through breeding an agouti lop pair and a white female lop in 1972. Their first baby lops were solid colors. A second generation came with broken colors. As a result of the breeding process, they began to obtain a high standard of qualities Mini Lop.

In 1974, when Herschbach's Mini Lop rabbits made their debut in an American Rabbit Breeders' Association (ARBA) convention held in Ventura, California. The outcome was that the breed needed to be downsized to a more compact, attractive size. In order to achieve this, Herschbach enlisted the assistance of other breeders by letting them breed more of his Mini Lops. One final touch resulted in changing the breed name from Klein Widders to "Mini Lop" to make it more appealing to the public.

In 1977 the Mini Lop breed was under new sponsorship; Herb Dyke was the person in charge of this task.

In 1978, Herschbach and Dyke created a correspondence club for the Mini Lops. Within a year, they had over 500 members who had contacted the ARBA with support for the Mini Lop rabbit. In 1980, in Milwaukee, Wisconsin at the National Rabbit Convention, this breed marked its success when it was recognized as an official rabbit breed sanctioned by ARBA.

Shortly after, the Mini Lop Club of America was founded to promote it.

In popular media

Bun-bun, the obligatory cute talking animal of the popular web comic Sluggy Freelance, is a Mini Lop rabbit. In addition to being cute (looking) and able to talk, Bun-bun has a keen mind, a bad attitude, and a switchblade. Bun-bun's origin probably lies in the comic's creator, Pete Abrams, attempting to humorously juxtapose a cute animal with a personality that was quick to resort to dry-witted disrespect and violence. The mini lop has since become one of Sluggy Freelance's most popular characters.

Showing Mini-Lops

Colors

Agouti: Chinchilla (black, blue chocolate, lilac, sable, or smoke pearl basic colors) Chestnut Agouti Lynx Opal

Broken: Broken - any one color recognised color mixed with white Tri-colored

Pointed white group: White body with black blue chocolate or lilac tips(nose, ears, feet, legs, and tail)

Self Group: Black Blue Chocolate Lilac White

Shaded Group Frosted Pearl Sable Seal point Seal Smoke Pearl Tortoise

Ticked Group Silver/Silver Fox Steel

Wide Band Group Cream Fawn Orange Red

Schedule of points according to the ARBA Standard of Perfection:

General Type 80

Body 43
Head 20
Ears and crown 12
Feet, Legs & Bone 5

Fur 10 Color & Markings 5 Condition 5

Weight Limits and showroom classes according to ARBA's Standard of Perfection:

Senior Bucks- 6 months of age and older, weight 4 1/2 lbs to 6 1/2 lbs
Senior Does- 6 months of age and older, weight 4 1/2 lbs to 6 1/2 lbs
Junior Bucks and Does- Under 6 months, weight 3 lbs to 6 lbs

Jersey Wooly Rabbit

2010-01-06T05:16:00.000-08:00

The Jersey Wooly is a breed of Domestic rabbit weighing about 3 pounds with a bold head and easy-care wool fur on their body. They are noted for their high intelligence, docile nature, and gentle disposition.

Origins

Bonnie Seeley of High Bridge, New Jersey introduced the Jersey Wooly at the 1984 American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) Convention in Orlando, Florida. It was recognized by the ARBA in 1988. Today, the Jersey Wooly is a popular pet and is also one of the most widely-exhibited rabbits at local and national shows in the United States.

The Jersey Wooly was developed by crossing the Netherland Dwarf and the French Angora. The result of this cross was an ideal small pet rabbit with a beautiful very easy-to-care-for coat. This is now a popular pet breed and comes in a variety of colors.

Appearance and Personality

A full grown Jersey Wooly weighs 1 - 1.5 kg (2.5 - 3.5 pounds) with 3lbs being considered ideal. They have compact body type. The ears are small and erect, standing about 2 1/4 inches in length. 3 inch ears are the maximum length allowed for exhibition stock per the ARBA's Standard of Perfection. The head is bold and squarish which lead the breed to being affectionately referred to as "Mugheads". A Jersey Wooly's coat is often referred to as "easy care" due to the high ratio of guardhairs. Ideally the Jersey Wooly's hair should be non-matting and require minimal grooming as an adult. Babies (under 6 months) may require more frequent grooming as they have a more cotton-like coat.

As with all breeds of rabbit, one concern is the potential for fur/wool block (similar to hair balls in cats). Wool block is caused by the rabbit ingesting hair while grooming itself and rabbits, unlike cats, cannot vomit up fur balls. A rabbit suffering from wool block will stop eating pellets and become relatively inactive. It is believed that feeding papaya tablets helps prevent wool block. But there is no proof that this works and there are various veterinarian articles that refute it. The best approach is in prevention - a diet that includes timothy hay, oat hay, or orchard grass hay will help to push ingested wool through the gut.

ARBA accepted varieties: Jersey Wools are Judged By Groups Rather than By Individual Varieties. Jersey woolies may be found in several other colors besides the Fallowing, However the other colors will not be showable.

These rabbits are very affectionate and playful. They love to be around other animals especially cats and dogs that are not hunter breeds or have a heavy prey instinct. They are very social. Jersey Woolies are very intelligent and can be taught some simple tricks. Most Jersey Woolies have very friendly personalities. As pets they range from laid-back lap bunnies to outgoing explorers.

Lifespan

The average life span of a Jersey Wooly can depend on many factors, including genetics and care. It is not uncommon for a Jersey Wooly to live 7-10+ years when properly cared for. There is a common myth that those who have had litters die sooner, but this has not been scientifically proven. Many rabbit breeders have healthy Jersey Wooly does who have had multiple litters live just as long as pet Jersey Woolies who have never had babies. It is also believed that neutering and spaying these rabbits will add years to their life span. Without neutering or spaying, rabbits can develop cancer and tumors that are life threatening. The risk of surgery on any small animal has to be considered. Because of their size, many small animals do not handle anesthesia well,and can die while in surgery.

Care

A jersey wooly's coat should be brushed regularly. Shear the fur when necessary because their long coat does not tolerate the summer's burning heat. Jersey woolies are easily litterbox trained with time and patience. Jerseys should be kept on a wire bottom cage because they have wool. A 16x20inch cage is is the Minimum recommended, although a 24 by 24 cage is more appropriate. Jersey Wooly rabbits enjoy being cuddled and played with by their owner when held properly, romping in a safe environment outside their cage, and playing with rabbit-safe toys.

Handling and petting your rabbit helps you to know their body. If any unusual nodes or masses show themselves, you may be able to get a jump on treatment. Bicillian can be used to combat these infections. Amoxicillin should never be used as it is fatal to rabbits. Don't be afraid to ask for treatment.

Where to get a Jersey Wooly

There are a few options to finding a pet Jersey Wooly. Jersey Wooly breeders can often be found online and at rabbit shows. American Rabbit Breeders Association exhibitors who breed their rabbits will often have its mother and father and may provide a pedigree with the rabbit. Rescue groups, such as Rabbit Match, and local chapters of the House Rabbit Society or Humane Society, may also occasionally have Jersey Woolies. When visiting a rabbitry, always check for bright eyes, the condition of the teeth and toenail, and the nose should be dry.

There are many ARBA exhibitors that raise Jersey Woolies. The National Jersey Wooly Rabbit Club maintains a list of breeders in the United States. Not all breeders are member of The National Jersey Wooly Club. There are severl yahoo groups for selling Jersey Woolies. Most State All Breed Rabbit Clubs will also be able to direct you to a Active Breeder. Try and find one that is local and close so that you can always rely on that particular breeder if you have any questions. ARBA exhibitors/breeders are often the best sources of information about the Jersey Wooly and their care.

Holland Lop Rabbit

2010-01-06T05:13:00.000-08:00

Holland lops are a breed of rabbit originating in the Netherlands. The breed was recognized by the Netherlands' Governing Rabbit Council in 1964 and the American Rabbit Breeders' Association in 1979. They are popular house pets, known for their sweet temperament and nonaggressive behavior.

History

This breed marked its beginnings when Dutch rabbit breeder Adriann de Cock sought to combine the best qualities from two rabbit breeds, the French Lop (known for being large and having floppy ears) and the Netherland Dwarf, into a new breed.

In the winter of 1949–50, de Cock bred a white Netherland Dwarf doe to a French Lop buck, but obtained an undesirable litter. Unsatisfied, he decided to switch the genders in the breeds, breeding a French Lop doe and a Netherland Dwarf buck. The resulting litter of six, however, all possessed normal, erect ear carriage.

Subsequently, in 1952, de Cock took a doe from the litter of six to breed with an English Lop buck. Producing five young of mixed ear carriage between lopped, erect and half-lopped. As the lone fully-lop-eared doe was deemed too aggressive in nature, it was not subjected to further breeding and a half-lopped doe was instead bred with a buck from the original litter of six. In turn, the does from the original litter were bred with the bucks from the second litter. The resulting lopped young were selected from the litter and interbred with an emphasis on French lop characteristics (in order to compensate for the infusion of the English Lop during the breeding process).

de Cock soon had a group of Holland Lops weighing between 2.5 to 3 kilograms. By January 1964, he bred the Holland Lops to a more desirable weight of less than 2 kilograms and presented four such specimens to the Netherlands Governing Rabbit Council, where the Holland Lop was recognized as a new breed. Soon thereafter, Aleck Brooks, founder of theHolland Lop Rabbit Specialty Club brought the breed to the United States in 1976 where they were subsequently recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders' Association in 1979.

Physical features

The Holland Lop is very popular and well-liked by many rabbit enthusiasts, pet owners and breeders, because of its compact size and attractiveness. It ties as the smallest breed of the lop-eared rabbits with the American Fuzzy Lop with an ideal weight of 3.5 lb (1.6 kg) for showing in American Rabbit Breeders' Association sanctioned shows. Their stocky, muscular-appearing body, is characterized by broad shoulders, deep chests, and short thick legs. The most common colors attributed to Holland Lops are white, Broken Black and black, as well as a shade similar to a tortoise shell. The Holland Lop shares a color guide in the ARBA Standards consisting of well over twenty colors with the fuzzy lop.

Herman Rabbit (German Giant)

2010-01-06T05:11:00.001-08:00

Herman is a German Giant Rabbit. The German Giant is a new breed of rabbit that was bred in order to produce a rabbit that could provide more meat. Herman weighs an astounding 7.7 kilograms or 22 pounds and is just under a meter long with ears alone measuring at 21 centimeters which is the total height of an average domestic rabbit. Hans Wagner is the owner of this supersized rabbit and says that Herman goes through just over 2 kg of food a day. The giant bunny lives in Berlin with his owner in a special oak hutch and also takes a vitamin supplement to keep him healthy. Herman munches through a bale of hay a week and his favorite snack is lettuce.

However, Herman isn't the largest rabbit in Berlin, he was beaten to the crown of the 'Berlins Biggest Bunny' contest by Rudi, who weighs a whole kilogram more than Herman.

French Lop Rabbit

2010-01-06T04:56:00.000-08:00

A French Lop is a popular breed of domestic rabbit that was first developed in France in the 19th century out of selective breeding between the English Lop and the Flemish Giant. The French Lop differs from the English in that it is characterized by a heavier stature and shorter ears. The French Lop weighs in at around ten pounds and has an average of lifespan of five years or more.

History

The French Lop Rabbit was first bred in France around 1850 and was established in France as a rabbit for meat during the mid 1800s. It is believed to have been produced by crossing two existing breeds, the English Lop and the Butterfly Rabbit of France The Butterfly rabbit is still bred in France and can be seen at the Grand Prix Show in Paris, this rabbit closely resembles our Flemish Giant of today, but is shorter in body and weighs approximately 15 pounds . The French Lop increased in popularity in neighbouring countries such as Belgium, Germany and Holland. In 1933, it was reported that ten French Lop Rabbits were brought over from Holland and exhibited in the UK, although it was not until the 1960s that French Lop Rabbits became a popular mainstream rabbit breed in the UK. French Lop Rabbits were imported into the USA in 1970-1971.

Appearance

The French Lop is a very large rabbit, weighing more than 10lb (4.5 kg) with lop ears of between 30 to 38 cm long that hang down below the jaw, and an almost cubic appearance with a short thickset body and large head. The front legs are short and straight and the hind legs are carried parallel to the body. The French Lop has a dense, soft coat that comes in two color varieties: solid and broken, and within these categories can be found a number of different rabbit colors, including agouti, black, broken marked, chinchilla and sooty-fawn.

Breeding

The ideal age for the female French Lop rabbit to start breeding is 9 months of age, but the first litter must be born before the female is one year old, due to the fusing of the pelvic bones that would hinder her ability to give birth naturally. It is recommended that they should not have any more litters after the age of three years. The French Lop rabbit can produce large litters, usually between 5-12 with a gestation period of between 28–31 days. On average they give birth at 30–32 days.

Behavior

Due to their relatively larger size in comparison to other breeds, the French Lop may require a large hutch/run to move around freely. They are known to have a placid and relaxed temperament, and can tolerate other species. However, they are considered as unsuitable in the presence of small children due to a risk of injury, and for people that have limited space, although they can live in the house as a house pet. As a social animal, it is recommended that a French lop rabbit be housed with a companion, that may include a fellow rabbit, although there is currently a debate on the suitability of the pairing of a rabbit and a smaller animal, such as a guinea pig.

Lifestyle

A French Lop is able to live outside and inside, a water-proof hutch that shelters the rabbit from any rain, snow, or heat is acceptable. If inside, a hutch or a cage can be used. If you are not giving your Lop regular time to spend with, consider getting two rabbits, a lonely rabbit that does not get regular exercise or companionship can be anti-social and depressed.

Diet

Like the majority of rabbits, the most important component of the diet of a French Lop rabbit is hay, a roughage that reduces the chance of blockages and malocclusion whilst providing indigestible fiber necessary to keep the gut moving. Grass hays such as timothy are generally preferred over legume hays like clover and alfalfa. Legume hays are higher in protein, calories, and calcium, which in excess can cause kidney stones and loose stool. This type of hay should be reserved for young kits or lactating does.

It is recommended that the French Lop, like other rabbits, receive a standard intake of 2 cups of chopped dark, green, leafy vegetables per 6 pounds of body weight (although this should be provided after four months of age to prevent enteritis) and up to 2 tablespoons of fruit or carrots per 6 pounds of body weight daily. It is common for some owners to provide treats, although in very limited quantities, which can include a few pellets, a slice of strawberry, or other healthy foods. Commercial treats are available in the pet stores in shops and can be occasionally used, although even more sparingly, since they typically feature a higher sugar and starch content.

Some of the vegetables that rabbits enjoy are romaine lettuce, escarole, turnips, collard, kale, parsley, thyme, cilantro, dandelion, and basil. The green, leafy tops of radish and carrots also are excellent sources of nutrients—more than the vegetable itself. New vegetables should be introduced slowly due to the delicate digestive systems of rabbits. It is recommended that cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage be avoided, as they cause gas and can lead to gastrointestinal stasis, which can be fatal. Vegetables such as potatoes and corn should also avoided due to their high starch content. French Lops also require an unlimited amount of fresh water, usually provided for in a water crock, tip-proof ceramic pet dish, or hanging water bottle.

Flemish Giant Rabbit

2010-01-06T04:52:00.000-08:00

The Flemish Giant is a popular breed of domestic rabbit, most famous for its large size compared to other rabbits. The Flemish Giant has a minimum weight of 5 kg, and can live for up to five years or more.

History

The origins of the Flemish Giant rabbit are uncertain. It is believed that the Flemish Giant rabbit is the modern descendant of the Patagonian rabbit of Argentina which was brought to Europe by 16th and 17th century Dutch traders. The large rabbits of Flanders were well known at the time, and may have been cross bred with the Patagonian. While the name "Flemish" comes from Flanders, the similarities to the Patagonian lead many to speculate that this giant is in fact descended primarily from the wild Argentine rabbits. This is highly unlikely, because the only native rabbits in Argentina, the tapeti (Sylvilagus brasiliensis) weighs less than two pounds (about 1 kg). The Patagonian hare (Dolichotis patagonum), an Argentinian rodent also known as the mara, is even less likely since it is not even a rabbit and cannot interbreed with European rabbits.

However, opponents of this theory point out the the Argentina Patagonian rabbit is actually classified as a Cavy and association with the Flemish Giant is very doubtful. Instead, it is argued that the Flemish came from combinations of a number of giant breeds from the old Flemish region possibly including the Steenkonijn (Stone Rabbit) and the European "patagonian" breed (now extinct). An alternative hypothesis put forward is that near the end of the 19th Century, the Flemish Giant as we know it today was developed in eastern Europe and the first standards were written by Albert Van Heuverzwijn in 1893. On the other hand, Wilkins (1896) wrote that the Flemish Giant was developed from the Leporine imported into England in the middle 1800s and shares its ancestry with the Belgian Hare.

The Flemish Giant was imported from England and Belgium to America in the early 1890s. It received no special attention until about 1910 where it started appearing at small livestock shows throughout the country. Today, it is one of the more popular breeds at rabbit shows because of its enormous size and its many and beautiful colors. It is promoted by the National Federation of Flemish Giant Rabbit Breeders which was formed in 1916.

Appearance

As one of the largest breeds of domestic rabbit, the Flemish Giant is a semi-arch type rabbit with its back arch starting back of the shoulders and carrying through to the base of the tail giving a "mandolin" shape. The body of a Flemish Giant Rabbit is long and powerful with good muscular development and relatively broad hindquarters. Bucks have a broad, massive head in comparison to does. Does may have a large, full, evenly carried dewlap (the fold of skin under their chins). The fur of the Flemish Giant is known to be glossy and dense, and when stroked from the hindquarters to the head, the fur will roll back to its original position. ARBA standard has seven different colors, black, blue, fawn, light gray, sandy, steel gray and white. They are shown in six classes (three buck classes and three doe classes): Junior bucks and does under 6 months, Intermediate bucks and does 6–8 months, and Senior bucks and does 8+ months. The minimum show weight for a Senior (older than 8 months) doe is 14 lbs (about 6.4 kg), and the minimum weight of a Senior buck is 13 lbs (about 5.9 kg)(ARBA Standards of Perfection). As with other "giant" breeds, the Flemish Giant grows slowly. A senior doe can take 1 year to reach full maturity. A senior buck can take 1.5 years to reach full maturity. It is not unusual to see a 10 kilo (22 pound) Flemish Giant, and specimens weighing 13 kilos (28 pounds) have been reported.

They are the world's biggest rabbit breed.

Behaviour & Lifestyle

Flemish Giants are known to be quite placid and laid-back, and as a result, they are known to be docile and tolerant of considerable handling, but could become fearful if handled incorrectly or irresponsibly, and for this reason it is generally recommended that it be under the care of an experienced or mature owner.

Due to its large size, the Flemish needs a large space to roam around. The House Rabbit Society, an international nonprofit rabbit rescue organization, recommends keeping your rabbit inside the home; in a very large pen or room(s) in the home. Rabbits are very easily litter box trained, and a well-trained rabbit may safely have run of the home, provided adequate protections are in place for safety. The Flemish Giant will require more food compared to other breeds of domestic rabbit (many cups per day). Unlike other breeds, the Flemish Giant will only require mild attention to grooming due to its short-hair. It does molt (loose old coat) in Spring and Fall. Some grooming at that time will keep your Flemish Giant looking nice, and feel better.

Diet

Like the majority of rabbits, the most important component of the diet of a Flemish Giant is hay, a roughage that reduces the chance of blockages and malocclusion whilst providing indigestible fiber necessary to keep the gut moving. Grass hays such as timothy are generally preferred over legume hays like clover and alfalfa (lucerne). Legume hays are higher in protein, calories, and calcium, which in excess can cause kidney stones and loose stool. This type of hay should be reserved for young kits or lactating does. A good quality rabbit feed (16-18% protein) is fine for Flemish Giants, as long as they have some supplement feed. A mix of black sunflower seed, beet pulp, steam rolled barley, shelled corn, in equal parts is a good winter mix.

It is recommended that the Flemish Giant, like other rabbits, receive a standard intake of 2 cups of chopped dark, green, leafy vegetables per 6 pounds (3 kg) of body weight (although this should be provided after four months of age to prevent enteritis) and up to 2 tablespoons of fruit or carrots per 6 pounds of body weight daily. It is common for some owners to provide treats, although in very limited quantities, which can include a few pellets, a slice of strawberry,banana, apple or other healthy foods. Commercial treats are available in the pet stores in shops and can be occasionally used, although even more sparingly, since they typically feature a higher sugar and starch content.

Some of the vegetables that rabbits enjoy are romaine lettuce, escarole, turnips, collard, kale, parsley, thyme, cilantro, dandelion, and basil. The green, leafy tops of radish and carrots also are excellent sources of nutrients—more than the vegetable itself. New vegetables should be introduced slowly due to the delicate digestive systems of rabbits. It is recommended that cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage be avoided, as they cause gas and can lead to gastrointestinal stasis, which can be fatal. Vegetables such as potatoes should also avoided due to their high starch content. The Flemish Giant will also require an unlimited amount of fresh water, usually provided for in a water crock, tip-proof ceramic pet dish, or hanging water bottle.

Breeding

The ideal age for the female Flemish Giant rabbit to start breeding is when they are about 9 months to one year. The first litter should be born before the female is one year old, due to fusing of the pelvic bones, that would hinder her ability to give birth naturally. It is prefereable that they have no more litters after the age of three years. The gestation period is between 28–31 days. On average they give birth at 30–32 days. The Flemish Giant rabbit can produce large litters, usually between 5 to 12 in a litter

English Spot Rabbit

2010-01-06T04:49:00.000-08:00

The English Spot is a breed of domestic rabbit that was developed in England in the 19th century through selective breeding. Averaging 5 to 8 pounds in weight, the English Spot is a medium-sized breed that is most noted by the distinctive colored markings on its body, including the butterfly, eye circles, cheek spots, herringbone, colored ears, and a chain of spots. The breed comes in seven varieties of colors: black, blue, chocolate, gray, gold, lilac, and tortoise. English Spots have a full arch body, with long front legs that carry them off the table. English Spots are most known for their curious and fun loving nature.

History

The English Spot is believed to be one of the oldest breed of fancy rabbit. The exact origin of the English Spot is not known, but is thought to have come from the English Butterfly. It is thought to be a relative of the Checkered Giant due to their shared physical features, such as cheek spots, butterflies, eye circles, colored ears, and a herringbone. The Checkered Giant is a larger breed, weighing on average 10-14 pounds.

The breed has been common in England since the 1850s, and was imported to North America at around 1910. The American English Spot Rabbit Club was established in 1924. The French named the breed "Lapin Papillon Angalias", or the English Butterfly Rabbit from the butterfly marking on the nose. Previous generations of the breed entailed a white rabbit with patches of color and through the years has acquired clearly defined markings.

Description

The English Spot is a medium sized breed, averaging 5-8 pounds. They are known for their arched body type, with two front paws that lift them off the table showing daylight under the belly. The hips should be well rounded and slightly broader than the shoulders. The legs are long and slender; the hind legs are parallel with the body. The ears are to be vertical. An English Spot that is well marked "will not show off the markings without the correct body type."

An English Spot is known by its six types of body markings: butterfly, cheek spots, eye circles, colored ears, herringbone, and chain of spots. The butterfly is a butterfly marking around the nose; if looking straight at the rabbit's nose, the butterfly will peak in the middle and have a wing on both sides. The cheek spots are a colored dots below the eye on both sides of the rabbit. Eye circles are solid colored circles around both eyes of the rabbit. The herringbone is a straight, solid line that runs from the base of the ears to the tip of the tail along the rabbit's backbone. The most known feature of the English Spot is the chain of individual spots that sweeps both sides of the rabbit's body, running from the base of the neck to the hind legs.

Lifestyle

The English Spot is an active rabbit needing an hour or two to run around each day. They are most active in the morning and night and sleep during the day. Due to its arched body type, the English Spot is judged while it runs the length of a table, which allows the animals body type to be fully assessed.

With an active lifestyle, comes a hearty appetite. Like the majority of rabbits, the most important component of the diet of an English Spot rabbit is hay, a roughage that reduces the chance of blockages and malocclusion whilst providing indigestible fiber necessary to keep the gut moving. Grass hays such as timothy are generally preferred over legume hays like clover and alfalfa. Legume hays are higher in protein, calories, and calcium, which in excess can cause kidney stones and loose stool. This type of hay should be reserved for young kits or lactating does.

It is recommended that the English Spot, like other rabbits, receive a standard intake of 2 cups of chopped dark, green, leafy vegetables per 6 pounds of body weight (although this should be provided after four months of age to prevent enteritis) and up to 2 tablespoons of fruit or carrots per 6 pounds of body weight daily. It is common for some owners to provide treats, although in very limited quantities, which can include a few pellets, a slice of strawberry, or other healthy foods. Commercial treats are available in the pet stores in shops and can be occasionally used, although even more sparingly, since they typically feature a higher sugar and starch content.

Some of the vegetables that rabbits enjoy are romaine lettuce, escarole, turnips, collard, kale, parsley, thyme, cilantro, dandelion, and basil. The green, leafy tops of radishes and carrots also are excellent sources of nutrients—more than the vegetable itself. New vegetables should be introduced slowly due to the delicate digestive systems of rabbits. It is recommended that cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage be avoided, as they cause gas and can lead to gastrointestinal stasis, which can be fatal. Vegetables such as potatoes and corn should also avoided due to their high starch content. English Spots also require an unlimited amount of fresh water, usually provided for in a water crock, tip-proof ceramic pet dish, or hanging water bottle.

Breeding

The English Spot doe, female, will foster young easily, often raising her young with the litter of other breeds. A normal litter is on average, 3-5 young with a gestation period of 28-31 days. Of a normal litter, 25% will be a solid color, 25% will have partial markings, and 50% will have all the required markings. The partially marked babies "typically have a mustache similar to Charlie Chaplin" and therefore are called 'charlies'.

A pregnant English Spot will require adequate food to support her and her young. Three weeks into the pregnancy, it is common for breeders to provide the doe with a nest box filled with straw. The doe will burrow in the straw and begin lining the nest with hair she pulls from her stomach, in order to insulate her litter and keep them warm, and when ready, she will have her young in the nest. Within two to three months, it is advised for the young to be separated from their mother.

English Lop Rabbit

2010-01-06T04:27:00.000-08:00

The English Lop is a fancy breed of domestic rabbit that was developed in England, in the 19th century through selective breeding, and is believed to be the first breed of lop rabbit developed by humans, and possibly one of the oldest breeds of domestic rabbit. Averaging 11 pounds (5.5 kg), the English Lop is characterized by its distinctively long lop ears, bold head and large body size, and can live up to five years or more.

History

As the first breed of lop rabbit, the English Lop was one of the first fancy breeds of rabbit developed in England, in the 19th century for the purposes of exhibition as a response to rise of animal fancy and consequently the rabbit’s emergence as a mainstream household pet during the Victorian era, marking a departure from the earlier role of domesticated rabbit breeding for meat, fur and wool production. Later, the English Lop was bred with other Continental giant breeds of rabbit gave rise to a number of new breeds of lop rabbit, including the French Lop, which developed from breeding between the English Lop and Flemish Giant, and the Holland Lop, which was in turn developed from the French Lop and the Netherland Dwarf.

Appearance

This breed is the original Lop. These rabbits are longer and of a more slender build than their other Lop cousins and they are most noted by their characteristically long lop ears, which can average 22 inches, the largest of any rabbit breed, which reach the end of their growth after 6 months of age. Male English Lops are known to have a longer ear measurement due to a wider head, whereas females are finer and have a narrower skull. English Lop. The two main varieties of English Lop are solid or self colors and broken colors (colors broken by white) and within this, they can come in several different colours, including Black, fawn, white, golden fawn, sooty fawn, and are short-haired.

Lifestyle

The English Lop needs a relatively large hutch so it has room to move about without standing on its ears. It is common for a wooden hutch made of a heavy wood with a waterproof roof, and raised off the ground to be provided if the rabbit is living outdoors, or a wooden hutch or cage if it is kept indoors. The cage would have a plastic or wire base with a wire lid fixed to the base. All rabbits must have an adequate exercise area, whether it is an outside run or an enclosed area in the house. The floor of the cage or hutch should be covered with wood shavings, and in cold or wet weather, bedding material, such as straw can be provided for the outdoor rabbit. It is recommended that the rabbit hutch or cage be cleaned out weekly and any old food, bedding be removed every three days to prevent soiling of the fur and special hutch disinfectants be used to prevent the spread of bacteria. Also, an earthenware food bowl and a drinking bottle will also be required to feed and water the rabbit. Unlike other breeds, the English Lop will only require mild attention to grooming due to its short-hair.

Behavior

English Lops are known to be quite placid and laid-back, but could become fearful if handled incorrectly or irresponsibly, and for this reason it is generally recommended that it be under the care of an experienced or mature owner. They will require special attention to their delicate ears, as well as a large hutch to accommodate their longer-than-average ears.

Feeding

Due to its relaxed and placid temperament, the English Lop is known to be relatively inactive. Like the majority of rabbits, the most important component of the diet of an English Lop rabbit is rabbit pellets and hay, a roughage that reduces the chance of blockages whilst providing indigestible fiber necessary to keep the gut moving. Grass hays such as timothy are generally preferred over legume hays like clover and alfalfa. Legume hays are higher in protein, calories, and calcium, which in excess can cause kidney stones and loose stool। This type of hay should be reserved for young kits or lactating does.

It is recommended that the English Lop, like other rabbits, receive a standard intake of 2 cups of chopped dark, green, leafy vegetables per 6 pounds of body weight (although this should be provided after four months of age to prevent enteritis) and up to 2 tablespoons of fruit or carrots per 6 pounds of body weight daily. It is common for some owners to provide treats, although in very limited quantities, which can include a slice of strawberry, or other healthy foods. Commercial treats are available in the pet stores in shops and can be occasionally used, although even more sparingly, since they typically feature a higher sugar and starch content.

Some of the vegetables that rabbits enjoy are escarole, turnips, collard, kale, parsley, thyme, cilantro, dandelion, and basil. The green, leafy tops of radish and carrots also are excellent sources of nutrients—more than the vegetable itself. New vegetables should be introduced slowly due to the delicate digestive systems of rabbits. It is recommended that cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage be avoided, as they cause gas and can lead to gastrointestinal stasis, which can be fatal. Vegetables such as potatoes and corn should also avoided due to their high starch content। English Lops also require an unlimited amount of fresh water, usually provided for in a water crock, tip-proof ceramic pet dish, or hanging water bottle।

Health

Due to the large ear size, English lops are slightly more vulnerable to a number of health problems, particularly ear infections, and it is advised that the ears should be checked periodically, especially for excess wax that can be accumulated on their deep ear canals and cleaned when appropriate. Ear blemishes can be kept to a minimum by keeping the toenails clipped, which can prevent injuries arising from the rabbit treading on its ears. The large surface area of its ears and body, and the absence of a dense undercoat can result in greater heat loss, which can become a problem for outdoor rabbits in cold climates and winters, and in the onset of these conditions, special measures should be taken to insulate the hutch, such as the provision of increased bedding and hay, and draft excluders. As they do not have good foot pad fur; a solid wood flooring with deep straw bedding is recommended for ear and foot protection.

Breeding

The ideal age for the female English Lop rabbit to start breeding is 9 months of age. The female English Lop rabbit is known to be particularly prolific, with rich milk, and a good maternal sense, and can produce large litters of between 5-12 babies, with a gestation period of between 28–31 days. On average they give birth at 30–32 days. It is recommended that the first litter must be born before the female is one year old due to the fusing of the pelvic bones, which would hinder her ability to give birth naturally, and it is recommended that they should have no more litters after the age of three years. It is during the first 16 weeks of an English Lop's life that its ears undergo its most rapid growth, and for this period, theirs ears will require special care and attention. Although a baby English Lop is usually born with normal-sized ears, for a month, each week the ears' size will double. At about four weeks old, the ears will be longer than the English Lop's body and the rabbits will be prone to accidents or injuries, such as tripping over their ears, or accidentally scratching them frequently, and more care should be given during this initial stage.

Trivia

On November 1, 2003 the ears of an English Lop called Nipper's Geronimo were measured at 79 cm (31.125 in) in a complete span at the American Rabbit Breeders Association National Convention in Wichita, Kansas, USA and are recorded as the largest measured ear-span of a rabbit, and a Guinness World Record.

Argente rabbit

2010-01-06T04:15:00.000-08:00

The Argente is one of France's oldest breed of fancy rabbit and is quite rare now in the UK. The British Rabbit Council recognises five colours of argente: Bleu, Brun, Creme, Champagne and Noir; the American Rabbit Breeders Association recognises only Creme and Champagne. Argente babies are born a solid colour and develop silvering as they age. Their colour can be very patchy when they are young and usually begin to show their adult colour at 4 months. The Argente also has a good nature and make great pets.

Argente Bleu and Argente Brun

- Ring Size C

Argente Bleus and Bruns have compact and fairly cobby body, short necks, markedly broad and rounded loins with wide developed hindquarters. They are short and fine boned, their front legs straight. Their ears short, rounded and proportionate in breadth, and they carry them erect. Bleus and Bruns weigh about 2.72 kg (6 lb), and their coats are very dense, glossy, silky and lie close to their bodies.

In rabbit shows the following are considered faults: dark or too long ears, too dark muzzle, and/or washy undercolour. Creamy or yellow tint most noticeable around the neck and cheeks, large paunch, bony or angular frame, fur that is too harsh, thin, wooly or too short. Dewlaps in either sex a serious fault. White topped or too dark exhibits to be discouraged. White toenails a minor fault. Lack of condition.

Argente Bleu color

The undercolour of the Argente Bleu is lavender blue, their body colour bluish white. In shows it is desirable for the whole color to be even and moderately interspersed is with longer dark blue hairs to give a distinct bluish effect when viewed from a distance. Eyes are bold and blue, toenails are coloured.

Argente Brun color

For Argente Bruns, an undercolour as deep brown as possible is desired, body colour brownish white, the whole evenly and moderately interspersed with longer dark brown hairs to give a distinct brownish effect when viewed from a distance. Eyes are bold and brown, toenails coloured.

Argente Creme

- Ring Size B

Argente Cremes are small and neat with well-developed hind quarters and slightly arched backs. Extremes of cobbiness or raciness are undesirable in shows. With broad heads and straight front legs, they are short and fine in bone. Ears short, proportionate in breadth, moderately rounded and they carry them erect. They weigh approximately kg 2.26 kg (5 lb) and like the Bleus and Bruns, their coats are very dense, glossy, silky and lie close to the body.

Argente Cremes have an orange undercolour (in shows it is beneficial for this to go down as far as possible) and their body colour is creamy white. In shows it is desirable for the whole color to be evenly and moderately interspersed with longer orange hairs to give a distinct creamy effect when viewed from a distance. White underbelly to be permissible but a coloured underbelly to be encouraged. Their eyes are bold and dark brown, toenails horn coloured.

In shows Cremes follow the same guidelines for faults as Bleus and Bruns with the addition of: light soiling of the feet, ears and genital organs, bare pads, fur slightly soiled or matted, and/or long toe nails lack of vitality.

Argente Champagne

- Ring Size G

TYPE: Moderate length of body, with well developed hind quarters and slightly arched back, avoiding extremes of cobbiness or raciness. Head broad and rather long with round skull. Front legs straight, of medium length, and fine in bone. Ears carried close together, medium length, slightly rounded at tips and carried erect.No dewlaps in bucks, excessive in does a fault. Weight approximately kg3.62 (8 lb)
COAT: Not less than 2.54cms(1 inch) in length, dense, silky, glossy and lying loose or open rather than close to the body.
COLOUR: Undercolour dark slate blue, body colour bluish white, the whole evenly and moderately interspersed with longer jet black hairs to give an old silver effect when viewed from a distance. Eyes brown, toe-nails coloured.
EVENNESS: In adults the part forming the pelt and extremities to be of one shade throughout., but the nose and muzzle as far as the smellers may be of a slightly darker shade. For under five months exhibits any black self colouring remaining on the head, ears, chest, nape and belly should not be penalised as moult.

In show judging the following are considered faults: dark ears, creamy or yellow tint most noticeable around the neck and cheeks. Large paunch, bony or angular frame. Fur harsh, thin, wooly or too short. Dewlaps in either sex a serious fault. White topped or too dark exhibits to be discouraged. White toe-nails a minor fault. Lack of condition.

Argente Noir

- Ring Size C

TYPE: Compact and fairly cobby body, short neck, markedly broad and rounded loins with wide developed hind quarters. Front legs straight, short and fine bone. Ears short, proportionate in breadth, rounded and carried erect. Weight approximately kg. 2.72 (6 lb)
COAT: Very dense, glossy, silky and lying close to the body. Desired length between 1.9 cm - 2.54 cm (3/4ins - 1ins)

COLOUR: Undercolour deep slate blue, body colour greyish white, the whole evenly and moderately interspersed with longer jet black hairs to give a disstinct old silver effect when viewed from a distance. Eyes bold and brown, toe-nails coloured.
EVENNESS: In adults the part forming the pelt and extremities to be of one shade throughout. For under five months exhibits any Lavender blue self colouring remaining on the head, ears, chest, nape and belly should not be penalised as moult.

In show judging the following are considered faults: dark or too long ears, too dark muzzle, washy undercolour. Creamy or yellow tint most noticeable around the neck and cheeks. Large paunch, bony or angular frame. Fur harsh, thin, wooly or too short. Dewlaps in either sex a serious fault. White topped or too dark exhibits to be discouraged. White toenails a minor fault. Lack of condition.

Along with ill health and disease, the following are considered disqualifications in shows: white patches, putty noses, drooping ears, and/or crooked legs. In Argentine Bruns, blue undercolouring is also considered a disqualification.

Checkered Giant

2009-12-03T20:42:00.000-08:00

The Checkered Giant rabbit is a breed of rabbit developed in Europe. In the UK the breed is known as Giant Papillon. Checkered Giants are one of 45 breeds of domestic rabbits recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association. Mature Checkered Giant bucks should weigh at least 11 pounds, and mature does 12 pounds, but there is no specified maximum weight. The Checkered Giant is outweighed by the Giant Chinchilla and Flemish Giant. The Checkered Giant is considered a show rabbit rather than a meat rabbit. The Checkered Giant is one of only 11 breeds with defined markings. Body type markings differ between European and American Checkered Giants, although they are considered the same breed.

Appearance

Recognized Colors of The Checkered Giant rabbit Varieties: Black, blue Showroom weights of the Checkered Giant rabbit Senior Bucks-8 months of age and over, min weight 11 lbs Senior Does-8 months of age and over, min weight 12 lbs. Int Bucks and Does-6-8 months of age, min weight 9 lbs. Jr. Bucks & Does-under 6 months of age, 6 lbs and over Pre-Jr. Bucks & Does-under 3 months of age, not less than 4 lbs. and not over 7 lbs. Each sex & variety (Black-Blue) judged separately.

Feed and housing

Commercial rabbit pellets are often recommended, though this is a disputed claim amongst rabbit rescue shelters and commercial breeders. Pellets are high in fat, which will render a fatter rabbit, but is not a healthy choice for longevity concerns.) Feed 1/2 cup of pellets per 5 pounds of body weight every day. Many breeders find it can be hard to keep weight on rabbits that are not offered free choice pellets. For rabbits under 8 months of age, feed unlimited plain alfalfa pellets. Free choice hay, such as timothy-grass, should be unlimited and changed daily. Alfalfa hay should not be offered free choice to rabbits over 8 months of age because it is too rich in calcium. Many rabbits do very well in the home. They can be litter box trained and are quite fastidious groomers. Be aware that rabbits love to chew so make sure all wires are safely hidden or in protective plastic covers and understand that some of your furniture may be nibbled. If you choose to cage your rabbit, make sure the cage is at least 3 feet by 3 feet by 4 feet. If the cage has a wire bottom make certain you give the rabbit a plank or sea grass mats to stand on so his feet won’t get damaged from being on the wire all the time. Provide a hide box or shelter and plenty of straw for bedding.

Common diseases and disorders

As with other rabbits, this breed does not do well in high or low temperatures. Sore or abscessed feet are common when housed only on wire with no solid surface to rest on.

Beveren (rabbit)

2009-12-02T07:08:00.000-08:00

The Beveren is one of the oldest and largest breeds of fur rabbits. It was first bred in Beveren, a small town near Antwerp in Belgium. Their coats can be blue, white, black, brown and lilac, though not all of these varieties are ARBA-recognized. There is a rare variety called the Pointed Beveren, which comes in the same colors but has white tipped hairs. The blue variety is the original.

The Beveren rabbit is a rare breed. They are well tempered, clean, and smart. Beverens are full of energy, and love to explore the outdoors. They are recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association in three different colors, Black, Blue, and White. The coat should be dense and glossy with a gentle rollback fur type. Fur length is rather long having an average of 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches. This large breed has a pronounced mandolin shape with mature bucks at 8 to 11 pounds and does at 10 to 12 pounds. Their litters are large, the young grow fairly fast, and the does are typically docile and make good mothers.

General type

Body

30 Points. The body type is to be of mandolin shape. Body is to be medium length, with broad, meaty back and a deep, firm loin. Shoulders are to be strong and firm, with a well-sprung rib cage, tapering slightly from broader, smooth hips. The body should present a definite arch when viewed from the side. The topline is to be a smooth curve, starting at the back of the shoulder, rising to a high point over the middle of the back, and curving over the hips to complete the arch.

Faults - Extremely long or short body length; flat, lacking arched outline.

Head

10 Points. The head is to be full from top to bottom, with a well-filled face and jaws. Head is to present a distinct curvature between the eyes and nose with a medium broad muzzle. Size of the head is to conform to the body more massive in bucks than in does. A medium dewlap is permissible on does.

Faults - Narrow pinched head; lack of curvature in profile; excessive dewlap.

Ears

10 points. ears are to be well furred and carried in a "V" shaped manner. Ideal length is to be 5 or more inches in seniors and intermediates.

Faults - Thin ears; very heavy ears; weak earbase.
Disqualification from Competition: Ear length less than 4-3/4" on seniors or intermediates.

Feet and legs

5 points. Front feet and legs are to be straight, strong and of medium bone. Hind feet and legs are to be straight, powerful, and well furred. Legs are to be medium bone, in proportion to size of body. In whites, toenails are to be white or flesh colored. In blacks and blues, toenails should be dark.

Disqualification from Competition: Non-matching toenails on the same foot or corresponding foot.

Fur

20 points. The coat is to be very dense and glossy. The guard hairs should be plentiful and of fine diameter, but strong enough to fall or roll gently back into position when stroked from tail to head. Density and texture share equal importance. Ideal fur length is between 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 inches. (Recommended for showing in breed fur.)

Faults - Soft; woolly; fur; harsh, heavy fur.
Disqualification from Competition: Fur under 1 inch or over 2 inches in length.

Color

20 Points.

Black

Color is to be deep, glossy, jet black, carried well down into a blue undercolor.

Eyes - dark brown.
Faults - Stray white hairs; rust; hutch stain; lack of even color.
Disqualification from Competition: Any other color eyes; white spot(s).

Blue

Color is to be a clean shade of light lavender blue, carried well down into the base, free from silvering.

Eyes - blue-gray, with ruby cast to pupil permissible
Faults - Stray white hairs; rust; hutch stain; lack of even color; any other shade of blue than described.
Disqualification from Competition: Any other color eyes; white spot(s).

[edit] White

Color is to be pure white, with no ivory cast.

Eyes - to be a brilliant blue.
Faults - Hutch stain.
Disqualification from Competition: Any other color eyes.

Condition

5 Points.

Faults - Soft and flabby flesh.

Californian rabbit

2009-12-01T07:00:00.000-08:00

Appearance

The Californian rabbit has erect ears and is moderate in size, weighing around 7 to 10 pounds (3.5 to 4.75 kilograms). The original coloration of this breed was very similar to the Himalayan rabbit, with a predominantly white body and black on the feet, nose, ears and tail. They have pink eyes.

Feed and housing

Many rabbits do very well in the home. They can be litter box trained and are quite fastidious groomers. Be aware that rabbits love to chew so make sure all wires are safely hidden or in protective plastic covers and understand that some of your furniture, books and baseboards may be nibbled. They can be contained in an exercise pen to prevent damage to your house. If you choose to cage your rabbit, make sure the cage is at least 2 feet by 2 feet by 4 feet. If the cage has a wire bottom make certain you give the rabbit a plank or sea grass mats to stand on so his feet won’t get damaged from being on the wire all the time. Provide a hide box or shelter and plenty of straw for bedding.

Californians are an excellent meat rabbit breed. They produce large litters of 8-12 kits, which have a fast growth rate to fryer size (4-5lbs)in 8-12 weeks. Californians are a breed developed for show and commercial purposes. They do not always make the best pets for small children. They are very strong, and can be dangerous.

Common diseases and disorders

As with other rabbits, Californians do not do well in high or low temperatures. They are prone to hairball obstructions and matted coats if not cared for properly. When the rabbit is molting, dead hair can be removed with a slicker brush. Other health concerns include ear mites, Pasteurella, respiratory disease, dental problems, urinary bladder stones and fractured backs. Be quick to notice any changes in diet or litter box habits and contact a rabbit veterinarian immediately. The average life span of a breeding Californian rabbit is 5 to 10 years. By spaying or neutering early in life, you can increase their life expectancy to around 10 years.

Dutch Rabbit

2009-11-29T00:09:00.000-08:00

The Dutch rabbit, easily identifiable by its characteristic colour pattern, was once the most popular of all rabbit breeds. However, after dwarf rabbits were developed, the popularity of the Dutch rabbit dwindled. Nevertheless, the Dutch rabbit remains one of the top ten most popular breeds worldwide.

"Although the name suggests that the Dutch rabbit is from the Netherlands, it was actually developed in England. During the 1830s rabbits were imported to England from Ostend in the Netherlands every week for the meat market. Amongst these rabbits was a breed known as the Petite Brabancon, as it originated from Brabant in Flanders. The Petite Brabancon may still be found in paintings from the fifteenth century. The Dutch rabbit has its genetic roots in this old breed. The Petite Brabancon would often display Dutch markings, and breeders in England selected those with even markings, fixing those markings into the breed we know today."

Dutch are popular both as pets and among show breeders.

Appearence:

The American Rabbit Breeders Association standard calls for a small to medium rabbit. Dutch are a 4-class breed. Junior bucks and does are those under 6 months of age with a minimum weight of 1.75 lbs. Seniors are 6 months of age and over, weighing between 3.5 and 5.5 lbs, with 4.5 being the ideal weight. Dutch are to have a compact, well-rounded body; rounded head; short, stocky, well-furred ears; and short, glossy "flyback" fur. Six colors (in conjunction with white) are recognized for show:

Black, a dense, glossy black

Blue, a medium blue-gray

Chocolate, a rich chocolate brown

Gray, (UK: Brown Grey) an Agouti color similar to that of the American cottontail, with bands of color on the hairshaft which produce a ring effect when blown into

Steel, (UK: Steel Grey) a black color with off-white tips to the hairshaft

Tortoise, (UK: Tortoiseshell) a bright, clean orange with slate blue shadings along the ears, whisker beds and hindquarters.

In the UK, Yellow (US: Gold) and Pale Grey (no US equivalent) Dutch are also recognized for show. New varieties under development in the United States include Harlequin (UK: Tri Coloured Dutch) (a pattern of black and orange patches) and Chinchilla.

Despite its popularity, the Dutch rabbit has not changed much over the years. The most striking aspect of the breed is the marking pattern:

The blaze is an even wedge of white running up the rabbit's face. It is shaped by the cheeks which are the rounded circles of color on either side of the face. The neck marking is a white wedge on the back of the head. The saddle is to be a straight line running behind the shoulders and continuing underneath the rabbit to the undercut across the belly. The stops are located on the rear feet, which should be white from the toes to a point one third the length of the foot.

The American standard allots 50 of the 100 total points to markings, 25 points to general type, 10 points to color, 10 points to fur and 5 to condition.

The BRC and UKDRC Standard

Ears short and strong, not pointed, and fairly broad at their base. (10 points)

Eyes bold and bright, fairly large. (5 points)

Blaze wedged shaped, carrying up to a point between ears.

Cheeks as round as possible, and coming as near to the whiskers without touching. Also covering the line of the jawbone. (15 points with Blaze)

Clean Neck means free from coloured fur immediately behind the ears. (10 points)

Saddle is the junction between the white and coloured fur on the back. This line to continue right round the animal in an even straight line. (10 points)

Undercut continuation of the saddle. To be as near up to the front legs as possible without touching them. (10 points)

Stops white markings on the hind feet, about 1 1/4 inches in length, and to cut cleanly round the foot in a similar manner to the saddle and undercut. (15 points)

Colour see below for colours. (10 points)

Shape (type) and Condition compact, cobby, rounded. Shape also means type. Weight and condition also have a bearing on shape or type. The ideal weight of an Adult Dutch should be 41/2 to 5lbs. Hard and firm in flesh. Back well covered with firm flesh. Not baggy in belly. Skin tight, gloss on coat, bright eyes, lively, alert. (15 points)

Classes for young Dutch rabbits are recommended by the UKDRC as being for Dutch rabbits under five months of age.

Disqualifications: Wrong coloured eyes (see Colour Standard). Discoloured or wall eyes (pale blue iris), specked eyes (pale blue spots or specks on the iris). Coloured fur on the White part or white patches on the coloured parts. Flesh markings (usually on ears). Trimming (attempts to straighten out irregularities, dyeing white spots on coloured fur etc). Malocclusion and mutilated teeth.

Black - Deep, solid and carrying well down to the skin, with blue under colour, the deeper the better. Free from white hairs and mealiness or flecking. Eyes dark hazel.

Blue - Deep, solid , slate blue, colour to carry well down to the skin. Blue under colour, the deeper the better. Free from white hairs and flecked or mealy coat. Eyes dark blue.

Steel Grey - Dark steel grey merging to pale slate blue in the undercolour. The whole interspersed with black guard hairs. The medium bright and evenly ticked shade is the one to aim for and the extreme tips of the fur will be tipped with steel blue or grey. The mixture to carry well down the sides, flanks and hind feet. Belly colour will be a lighter shade varying with the top colour. Upper part of the tail to match the body colour; underside to tone with the belly colour. Ears to match body, Eyes deep hazel.

Brown Grey - Slate blue at the base followed by a band of yellowy orange then a black line, finishing by light or nut brown tips to the fur. The whole interspersed by black guard hairs. That is the impression gained when the fur of the brown grey is parted. The general impression should be light or nut brown on ears, cheeks, body, hind feet and top of tail, the whole ticked with black hairs. Belly colour and eye circles (small as possible) bright straw colour. A lighter shade permissible under tail. Eyes hazel, deeper the better.

Pale Grey - Top colour biscuit carrying well down and merging in to pale slate at the base, the whole interspersed with black ticking. The general impression should be biscuit tipped with black on ears, cheeks, body and top of tail. Belly colour white with pale slate undercolour. Eye circle white but ideally non-existent or as small as possible. Body colour should be present on hind feet. Underside of tail white. Eyes hazel.

Tortoiseshell - An even shade of orange top colour to carry well down and shading off to a lighter colour to the skin. Ears, belly and under the tail blue-black. Cheeks and hind quarters (flanks) shaded or toned with blue black. Eyes hazel, the deeper the better.

Chocolate - Deep solid dark chocolate, colour carrying well down to the skin. Undercolour to match the top colour as near as possible. The deeper the under colour the better the top will appear. Free from white hairs and mealiness. Eyes hazel, the deeper the better.

Yellow - An even shade of yellow throughout. The exact shade is not so important as that the colour should be even and extend to the belly or undercut and no eye circles. In fact, a self colour free from chinchillation on cheeks and hind feet. Eyes hazel.

Description of terms used: Flecking or Mealiness - Individual hairs more than one colour in selfs. e.g. Blacks should be black at the tip of the fur, that colour carrying down the fur as far as possible, then merging into blue. In flecked or mealy exhibits the individual fur would be black, then dark grey, then a deeper shade before merging into blue at the base.

Chinchillation - A mixture of colours ticked with a darker shade, often found on the cheeks of yellows. The steel, pale and brown grey are chinchillated varieties to a certain extent.

The BRC has a separate standard for Tri Coloured Dutch.

Dwarf Rabbit Information

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Dwarf rabbits are a variety of domestic European rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus). Dwarf rabbits are much smaller than normal rabbits, but are capable of interbreeding with them, so are not recognized as a separate species.

Purebred dwarf rabbits weigh 0.7-1.4kg. Their heads and eyes are disproportionately large with respect to their body, and their ears are small and carried high on the head. The exception to this is the dwarf lop — a cross between the French lop and the dwarf — which is both heavier (3.0-4.0 lb) than a standard dwarf and has long, dangling ears. Many different colorations make up breeds in dwarf rabbits, such as Himalayan, Red, Siamese, Chinchilla, Blue, and White-tipped Black.

Dwarf rabbits generally have the same behavioral traits as other domestic rabbits. They can be housetrained and can be socialized with dogs, cats and hamsters. Also, its a good idea if they're babies to feed them with just born nursing bottles for pets.

Most of the rabbits sold as dwarves in pet stores are not true dwarfs, but crosses between a dwarf and a standard rabbit. These "mongrels" are hardier, but grow to a larger size and lack the characteristic small head and low carriage of the true dwarf.

Like other domestic rabbits, dwarf rabbits consume grasses, grains, and other succulent greens. Their digestive system is somewhat less hardy than European rabbits, and many leafy vegetables such as lettuce and cabbage can give them health problems. Nuts and seeds are also harmful to dwarf rabbits.

The existence of a dwarf gene in the European rabbit is not disputed, but the existence of the dwarf gene in certain breeds of European rabbit is not always clear. It may be present in some lines but not other lines of the same breed. Breeding two rabbits that both carry the dwarf gene may result in a homozygous dwarf offspring, that is commonly termed a "peanut". Peanuts (about the size of a peanut) are very small and deformed baby rabbits that will be born with a very large head, almost no ears and their back legs often cross. Peanuts usually live for a few days but sometimes will last a couple of weeks. The birth of a peanut proves that the dwarf gene was present in both parents.

Breeds that are known to carry the dwarf gene are the Netherland Dwarf, the Dwarf Hotot, the U.S. Polish Rabbit and most breeds with "dwarf" in the name. Small breeds that some claim do not carry the dwarf gene are the Britannia Petite, Tan and Elfin Rabbit. It is unclear if the "mini sized breeds", such as the Mini Satin and Mini Lop, carry the dwarf gene.

Owning Your Very First Dwarf Rabbit

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If you have some spare time on your hands, you may wish to consider keeping a pet to keep you occupied. There are many types of pets that you can choose to keep. There are pets that are bigger and more aggressive (like dogs), and there are pets that are smaller and rather docile (like rabbits). Of course, your final decision will depend on your own personality as well as your preferences. If you prefer something that is small, adorable, and easy to maintain, perhaps the dwarf rabbit is a good choice.

Owning your first rabbit.

Even if you have no experience whatsoever with rearing pets, you should still be able to keep a rabbit without much problems. That's because rabbits are very easy to keep and maintain. Most of the time, they are kept in cages or play pens when you are not around. Everyday, during your spare time, you can take them out of their confined area and let them have a bit of exercise. Just like human beings, rabbits also need to exercise in order to stay healthy. Let your rabbits have a good run in the backyard or in a field.

You can also let your rabbit loose when it's indoors. But rabbits are not like dogs. You can't really potty train rabbits. But the good thing about rabbit is that it is naturally a clean animal. Very often, you will find your rabbit going back to its designated area to eliminate stool. Still, you can't expect your rabbit to be well behaved all the time. After all, they are just cute little animals. Once in a while, they will urinate or defecate while running around in the house. So if you let them loose indoors, be prepared to clean up after them every now and then.

In addition, rabbits also tend to shed hair. So try not to let them loose on expensive furniture sets like sofas and beds. Otherwise, you may have a hard time trying to get rid of the loose hair.

Owning your very first dwarf rabbit.

There are many different breeds of rabbits. Mixed breed rabbits are the most commonly seen, and they are also the most affordable. They come in a variety of different colors. Often, because they are of a mixed breed, the colors are mixed as well. But that doesn't make them less adorable. Their nature remains essentially the same.

Pure breed rabbits are more rare, and they are also more costly. Some of these rabbits come with very rare coats of fur. Of course, rabbits that are rare and hard to find cost a lot more than ordinary rabbits.

Dwarf rabbits are a special breed, and they are perfect as pets. They are known as the Britannia Petite or the Netherland Dwarf. And they weigh just around two and a half pounds for a mature adult. In fact, they are so small that you can easily place it on one palm!

Taking care of a dwarf rabbit is essentially similar to taking care of an ordinary rabbit. You need to keep its home clean, give it plenty of vegetables to eat, and spend some time playing with your beloved pet. You will find its companionship to be most enjoyable.

For more information on Dwarf Rabbits or Dwarf Bunnies, please visit our website.

Blue of Sint-Niklaas Rabbit

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Blue of Sint-Niklaas is a Flemish rabbit breed. It has been bred since the 19th century, near the city of Sint-Niklaas, to supply the local fur-industry, and is thereby one of the oldest fur-rabbit breeds of the world. The Van Beveren, also a fur-rabbit breed, is family and has been bred in the same region of Flanders, the Waasland.

Internationally, only blue varieties are accepted by the standard, in contrary to the Van Beverens, where other varieties are accepted. Also in contrary to the Van Beverens, the weight of the Blue of Sint-Niklaas is much larger, up to 12 lb (5.4 kg) indicating resemblance to the Flemish Giant.

After the decrease of pelt-saling and fur-industries in the region (and the world) the breed became almost extinct, as it was not popular as a pet or meat-rabbit. Only a few European breeders in Belgium and France are left.

American Sable

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Appearance

The American Sable is a result of Chinchilla rabbit crosses. Sables are identical to Chinchilla rabbits in body conformation, but their coats are colored differently. The head, feet, ears, back, and top of the tail are a dark sepia, while the coat fades to a lighter tan over the rest of the body, similar to the coloring of a Siamese cat. The breed's eyes are usually dark with a ruby hue.

Typically their weight can reach 7-10 lbs.

Demeanor

The American Sable enjoys the company of other rabbits. It is generally docile, spending most of the day sleeping. Typically they enjoy the companionship of their owner, but on their own terms. When distressed, the American Sable will make a grunting noise or will, like many other breeds, thump its back foot on the ground in an attempt to scare whatever it is that is bothering them.

American fuzzy lop

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The American Fuzzy Lop is a rabbit breed recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). It is similar in appearance to a Holland Lop. However, the American Fuzzy Lop is a wool breed and will have wool similar to the Angora breeds, although the wool will be of a short variety.

History

The background of the American Fuzzy Lop is interwoven with the history of the Holland Lop. When first introduced, the Holland Lop rabbit was only available in solid colors, and some breeders wanted to add the broken pattern to the Holland Lop gene pool. To do this, they bred their Holland Lops to English Spots. While they achieved the goal of producing broken pattern rabbits, they failed to keep the rollback fur the Holland must have. The offspring instead had the flyback fur of the English Spot. The breeders then bred Holland Lops to French Angoras, a breed that has a very gentle rollback coat. The result of these manipulations was that the wool gene was also introduced into the Holland Lop gene pool and a Holland with long wool was occasionally found in Holland Lop litters. These were generally sold to people who were enchanted with a small wooled lop-eared rabbit.

The pioneer American Fuzzy Lop breeders, including Patty Greene-Karl and Gary Fellers of the east coast and Kim Landry and Margaret Miller of the west coast, noted the marketability of the fuzzy Hollands. Patty Greene-Karl is credited with realizing that the "fuzzy" gene was recessive, so that mating two Holland Lops carrying this gene resulted in a certain percentage of the offspring (theoretically 25%) with wool. Patty decided to develop these rabbits as a new breed, named the American Fuzzy Lop. After working for four years on the development of Fuzzies, she presented her rabbits to the ARBA for the first showing of the new breed at the 1985 ARBA Convention in Houston, Texas. Three separate standards for wooled lops were received from three different individuals. The original standard called for a maximum weight of 4 ¾ lb with the ideal weight of 3 ¾ lb, a rabbit designed to have the body type, ear carriage, and size of a Holland Lop, combined with a short, easily maintained wool. At the 1986 ARBA Convention in Columbus, Ohio, the American Fuzzy Lop was presented for its second showing, and again passed. At its third showing at the 1987 ARBA Convention in Portland, Oregon, the ARBA Standards Committee did not approve the breed. They stated a lack of uniformity from one animal to another. A new working standard was written by Jeff Hardin at the request of Patty, which was accepted. The revised standard basically described a wooled Holland, calling for a maximum weight of 4 pounds, and an ideal weight of 3 1/2 lb In 1988, ARBA requested only the breed sponsor be allowed to bring her Fuzzy Lops to Convention in Madison, Wisconsin because of limited cage space. The American Fuzzy Lop had to pass that year to become a recognized breed or else its proponents would have to start the procedure all over again. Fortunately, Patty’s presentation passed at this Convention, and the American Fuzzy Lop became a new recognized breed. In 1989 in Tulsa, Oklahoma, Helen McKie's "Herbie" was selected as the first Best of Breed (BOB) American Fuzzy Lop at an ARBA Convention. Herbie’s picture graced the ARBA Standard of Perfection, 1991-95, representing Fuzzies well but only the American Fuzzy Lop presented by Patty was granted a working standard.

Appearance and Personality

The American Fuzzy Lop resembles the Holland Lop with the exception of its wool. The American Fuzzy Lop weighs 3.5 - 4.0 pounds as an adult. They have a very compact body, that appears very muscular. They come in most of the recognized ARBA colors. The ears of the American Fuzzy Lop do not stand erect, but rather lop along the side of the face. They have a short and flat muzzle similar to that of a bulldog.

American Fuzzy Lops are shown in two classes based on their color pattern. They come in a variety of colors. Solid color patterns are shown together at ARBA shows, while broken pattern (color patches broken up by white fur) are shown together.

American Fuzzy Lops are an active, playful, social breed with lots of personality. They enjoy the attention of their owner, as well as the companionship of other rabbits.